Serum Formulation for Anti-Aging, Brightening, and Pore Tightening

Asked by: woodymansurat On: January 31, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Please review the following serum formulation for anti-aging, brightening, and pore tightening, suitable for all skin types, using the specified ingredients:

  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 7 %
  • Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 3 %
  • Repair Activator™ 10 %
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 10 %
  • Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine Hydrochloride) 2 %
  • Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) 2.5 %
  • Yeast Radiance™ 3 %
  • AnyGel™ 1 %
  • Phenoxyethanol (Optiphen) 1 %
  • Distilled Water 60.5 %

I have the following questions regarding this formulation:

  1. Can these ingredients be mixed together? Are there any incompatible ingredients in this formula?
  2. Can I mix all ingredients directly since they are all water-soluble?
  3. If they can be mixed, should I start by mixing AnyGel™ with water at 70-80°C, let it cool, and then add the other ingredients?
  4. Based on this formula, what will be the texture of the product? Will it be a serum texture as desired?
  5. Can I add a mild fragrance to make it fragrant? Will this cause irritation?

Answer

Serum Formulation Review

Here is a review of your proposed serum formulation for anti-aging, brightening, pore tightening, suitable for all skin types:

1. Compatibility of Ingredients

The ingredients you've selected are generally compatible for use in a water-based serum formulation, provided proper mixing techniques and pH control are observed. Most of the active ingredients are water-soluble.

Potential considerations:

  • pH Sensitivity: Several ingredients, including Vitamin B6, Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), and Yeast Radiance, have optimal pH ranges for stability and efficacy. Vitamin B6 is most stable at a lower pH (2-6), while Safe-B3 is best at 4-7 and Yeast Radiance at 4-6.5. The inclusion of Vitamin B6, which has a naturally low pH, will likely lower the overall pH of the formula. You will need to check the final pH of your serum and adjust it to be within a range that balances the needs of these ingredients, ideally between pH 4.0 and 6.0.
  • Heat Sensitivity: Several ingredients, such as Pep®-Coll, DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid, Repair Activator™, Vitamin B6, and Yeast Radiance, are sensitive to heat and should be added at temperatures below 40°C.

2. Direct Mixing

While all ingredients are water-soluble, simply mixing them all together directly is not recommended due to the varying sensitivities to heat and pH. A specific mixing procedure is necessary to ensure the stability and effectiveness of each component.

3. Mixing Procedure

A recommended mixing procedure to account for ingredient sensitivities:

  1. Disperse AnyGel™ in the distilled water at room temperature or slightly warm water (below 40°C). Mix thoroughly until the gel is fully hydrated and smooth. Avoid high heat as it is not necessary for AnyGel™ and can degrade other ingredients.
  2. Add Safe-B3™ and Calendula Extract to the gel base and mix until fully dissolved.
  3. Ensure the temperature of the mixture is below 40°C. Then, add Vitamin B6, Pep®-Coll, Repair Activator™, and Yeast Radiance™. Mix gently to incorporate without creating excessive foam.
  4. Add DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid and mix gently.
  5. Add Phenoxyethanol and mix well.
  6. Check the final pH of the serum. If necessary, adjust the pH to be between 4.0 and 6.0 using a suitable pH adjuster.

4. Product Texture

With 1% AnyGel™ as the gelling agent, the formula should result in a gel or serum-like texture. AnyGel™ is known for creating a non-greasy gel that absorbs well, which is suitable for a serum product.

5. Adding Fragrance

You can add a mild fragrance to the serum. However, fragrances can be potential skin irritants, especially for sensitive skin. Since you aim for a product suitable for all skin types, adding fragrance increases the risk of causing irritation or allergic reactions. If you choose to add fragrance, use a very low concentration and consider using a hypoallergenic type. Add the fragrance in the final step of the mixing procedure, ensuring the temperature is below 40°C.

Overall, your proposed formula contains beneficial ingredients for targeting wrinkles, brightening, and pore appearance. By following a careful mixing procedure and controlling the pH, you can create a stable and effective serum.