Serum Formulation Feedback

Thank you for sharing your serum formula. Here is some feedback and answers to your questions:

Formula Review

Your formula includes excellent ingredients for skin brightening and antioxidant benefits like Alpha Arbutin and Green Tea Extract. However, based on your concern about occasional clogged pores, here are a few points to consider:

• High Silicone Content: Your formula contains a high percentage of silicones (Cyclomethicone 35% and Silicone Gel 30%, totaling 65%). While silicones provide a smooth, silky feel and help with spreadability, such a high concentration might feel heavy or occlusive for some skin types, potentially contributing to clogged pores, even if your skin is not typically oily.
• Emulsifier Suitability: Sepiplus 400 is generally used as a thickener and emulsifier, but it might be challenging to create a stable emulsion with such a high oil/silicone phase (65%). You might need to adjust the Sepiplus 400 concentration or consider a different emulsifier system designed for high oil loads.
• Total Percentage: The percentages in your formula add up to 97%. You will need to increase the water percentage to 24.3% to reach a total of 100%.

Consider reducing the silicone content for a lighter serum texture that might be less likely to contribute to clogged pores.

Mixing Order for Alpha Arbutin and Green Tea Extract

Both Alpha Arbutin and Green Tea Extract are heat-sensitive and should be added in the final step of your formulation when the temperature has cooled down. To determine the order when adding them together:

1. Ensure your base formula (water phase, silicones, emulsifier, preservatives, WaterLock) is fully prepared and cooled.
2. Add Alpha Arbutin when the temperature is below 30°C. Alpha Arbutin requires a temperature below 30°C for stability.
3. Add Green Tea Extract. Green Tea Extract requires a temperature below 40°C, so adding it after Alpha Arbutin (when the temperature is already below 30°C) is suitable.
4. Ensure the final pH of your serum is between 4.0 and 6.5, which is the optimal range for the stability and efficacy of both Alpha Arbutin and Green Tea Extract.

Remember to add Disodium EDTA to the water phase at the beginning to chelate metal ions and improve stability.

By adjusting the silicone levels and following the correct mixing order and pH requirements, you can create a more suitable and effective serum for your skin type and concerns.