Serum Formulation for Combination Skin: Addressing Wrinkles, Uneven Tone, Pores, and Texture

ถามโดย: sincere9955 เมื่อ: August 28, 2017 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have combination skin with an oily T-zone and dry/dehydrated areas, along with concerns about wrinkles on my forehead and under my eyes, uneven skin tone, and enlarged pores. I am trying to formulate a non-sticky, fast-absorbing serum to address these issues.

Based on an initial list of ingredients, I would like to remove LipidSoft Dry and Dimethicone as they are not necessary.

My questions are:

  1. How can I formulate a serum that targets these multiple concerns (hydration, wrinkles, uneven tone, pores) while having a light, non-sticky, fast-absorbing texture?
  2. I noticed a 'bood' (rotten/sour) smell when mixing Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract) in cream. Is this normal, and are there alternatives with less odor?
  3. Can Ethyl Alcohol be used in the formula to help achieve a non-sticky, fast-absorbing feel? What are the pros and cons for my skin type?

คำตอบ

Multi-Benefit Serum for Combination Skin

Thank you for providing details about your skin concerns and the ingredients you have. You have combination skin with an oily T-zone and dehydrated dry areas, along with concerns about wrinkles on your forehead and under your eyes, uneven skin tone, and enlarged pores. You are looking for a non-sticky, fast-absorbing serum that addresses all these issues in one bottle.

You also asked about the smell of Beta Glucan when mixed in cream. The Beta Glucan extracted from Saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast extract) is a beige/brown liquid with a natural smell. This natural smell might be what you are perceiving as a 'bood' (rotten/sour) smell. If the smell is bothersome, you might consider using Beta Glucan extracted from oats (available as a powder), which typically has less odor.

Based on your skin concerns and the ingredients you have, here is a proposed serum formula designed to address hydration, wrinkles, uneven tone, and pores, while aiming for a light, fast-absorbing texture. This formula also takes into account the incompatibility between Vitamin B3 and Vitamin C derivatives like Ethyl Ascorbic acid and Perfect-C. Since pore reduction is a key concern, Vitamin B3 is included, and the Vitamin C derivatives are excluded from this specific formula.

Proposed Serum Formula

This formula combines several active ingredients to target your specific concerns:

  • Water Phase:

    • Water: Balance to 100%
    • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
    • MOIST24: 3%
    • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 4%
    • Tranexamic Acid: 2%
    • Activated Resorcinol: 0.5%
    • 4MSK: 1%
    • Yeast Radiance: 2%
    • Cell-Energy (Adenosine): 1%
    • Japanese Cedar: 1%
    • Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract: 1%
    • Ume Extract: 1%
    • Hi-EGCG (Green Tea Extract): 1%
    • N-Acetyl Cysteine: 1%
    • Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract): 3%
    • Rice Vitamin (Inositol): 1%
    • Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
  • Oil Phase (Add after water phase is mixed):

    • Active Resveratrol: 1%
  • Optional (for scent, use sparingly):

    • Fragrance Oil: 0.1-0.5%

Notes on Formulation:

  1. Combine the water phase ingredients (Water, Disodium EDTA, MOIST24, Vitamin B3, Tranexamic Acid, 4MSK, Yeast Radiance, Cell-Energy, Japanese Cedar, Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract, Ume Extract, Hi-EGCG, N-Acetyl Cysteine, Beta Glucan, Rice Vitamin, Phenoxyethanol SA). Ensure all water-soluble powders are fully dissolved. Gentle heating (below 50°C) may help with some ingredients like Tranexamic Acid, but allow to cool before adding heat-sensitive ingredients.
  2. Add Active Resveratrol (oil-soluble). Ensure it is fully dispersed or solubilized.
  3. Add Fragrance Oil if desired.
  4. Mix thoroughly until homogeneous.
  5. For Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract), ensure the final formula has sufficient viscosity to keep it dispersed and prevent precipitation. If using oat-based Beta Glucan powder, ensure it is fully dissolved in the water phase.
  6. As the staff mentioned regarding your previous formula attempt, if you were planning to use a base like Silky Serum Base Plus for emulsification, ensure you have enough water in the formula and use a blender as required by the base. The formula above is designed as a water-based serum, which should be less greasy.

Regarding your question about Ethyl Alcohol for a non-sticky, fast-absorbing serum: While Ethyl Alcohol can contribute to a fast-drying feel, it can also be drying and irritating, especially for skin that feels dehydrated in some areas. Given your combination skin with dry/dehydrated zones, it's generally better to achieve a non-greasy, fast-absorbing texture through careful selection of humectants, minimal oil phase (if any), and appropriate thickeners/texture enhancers rather than relying on alcohol. The proposed formula focuses on this approach.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Active Resveratrol™
Active Resveratrol™
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Disodium EDTA
Disodium EDTA
เครื่องสำอาง
Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract)
Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract)
เครื่องสำอาง
Trans-White™
Trans-White™
เครื่องสำอาง
Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8)
Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8)
เครื่องสำอาง
Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
เครื่องสำอาง
N-Acetyl Cysteine (Glutathione Precursor)
N-Acetyl Cysteine (Glutathione Precursor)
เครื่องสำอาง
Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract)
Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract)
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
เครื่องสำอาง
MOIST24
MOIST24
เครื่องสำอาง
Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
เครื่องสำอาง
Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract (HybridCell™)
Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract (HybridCell™)
เครื่องสำอาง
Adenosine Liposome
Adenosine Liposome
เครื่องสำอาง
Yeast Radiance™
Yeast Radiance™
เครื่องสำอาง
Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract)
Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract)
เครื่องสำอาง
4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate)
4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate)
เครื่องสำอาง