Serum Formulation for Dehydrated and Oily Skin

Question

I am developing a serum formulation for skin that is dehydrated but also oily in some areas. I have put together the following formula and would like to get feedback on its suitability and any potential issues or suggestions for improvement:

My proposed serum formulation:

Safe B3 (Niacinamide) 5%
GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine) 4%
Hi-EGCG (Green Tea Extract EGCG) 1%
Madecassoside-80 (Centella Asiatica Extract Madecassoside) 0.5%
Double Hyaluron Liquid (Hyaluronic Acid) 1%
Azelaic Acid Water Soluble 5%
Water phase (Water, Preservative)

Is this formulation suitable for dehydrated and oily skin? What are the potential considerations regarding ingredient compatibility, concentration, texture, or stability? Are there any suggestions for improving this formula?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Serum Formulation for Dehydrated and Oily Skin

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your serum formulation for dehydrated and oily skin. Let's review the ingredients you've chosen:

Safe B3 (Niacinamide) 5%: Excellent for oily skin, helping to regulate sebum and minimize pores. Also strengthens the skin barrier, beneficial for dehydration.
GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine) 4%: Works well with Niacinamide to improve skin tone and barrier function, adding hydration.
Hi-EGCG (Green Tea Extract EGCG) 1%: Provides antioxidant and soothing benefits, good for calming oily/acne-prone skin.
Madecassoside-80 (Centella Asiatica Extract Madecassoside) 0.5%: Helps soothe and repair the skin barrier, supporting hydration.
Double Hyaluron Liquid (Hyaluronic Acid) 1%: A key ingredient for addressing dehydration by drawing moisture into the skin without adding oiliness.
Azelaic Acid Water Soluble 5%: Beneficial for oily skin concerns like clogged pores and inflammation.

Overall, the ingredients you've selected are well-chosen for addressing both dehydration and oiliness. Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, and Madecassoside help with hydration and barrier support, while Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid target oiliness and related issues.

Considerations:

Potential Irritation: The combination of 5% Niacinamide and 5% Azelaic Acid might be potent for some skin types, especially if your skin barrier is currently compromised due to dehydration or other factors (as the staff mentioned, consider if your current routine includes potential irritants). If you have sensitive skin or are new to these actives, you might consider starting with lower concentrations or introducing them gradually.
Texture/Consistency: Your formula includes water, actives, a humectant, and a preservative. It appears to be missing a thickener or gelling agent. Without one, the serum will likely be very watery. You might want to add a suitable thickener (e.g., Xanthan Gum, Carbomer) to achieve a serum consistency.
pH Adjustment: For optimal stability and efficacy, particularly for Azelaic Acid, checking and adjusting the final pH of the serum is recommended.

Conclusion:

The proposed ingredients are suitable in principle for your skin type. However, be mindful of potential irritation from the active concentrations and consider adding a thickener for better texture. Reviewing your current skincare routine for potential irritants, as suggested by the staff, is also a good step to ensure your skin barrier is healthy enough to tolerate this formulation.

You have a good base here! With slight adjustments for texture and careful consideration of your skin's tolerance, this could be an effective serum.