Serum Formulation Guide for Beginners

Welcome to the world of DIY skincare! It's great that you're starting to mix your own products. Based on the ingredients you have and your skin concerns (firming, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing for dry, sensitive skin), you can definitely create an effective serum. Here’s a guide to help you get started.

Achieving a Serum Texture

To turn your water-soluble ingredients into a serum texture, you need a gelling agent or thickener. Hyaluronic Acid powder is an excellent choice for this, as it also provides significant hydration, which is perfect for dry skin. Using a low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid will help it penetrate deeper into the skin for better moisturizing effects.

Recommended Ingredients and Usage Rates

Here are the ingredients you have and the recommended usage rates, along with essential ingredients you should add:

• Purified Water: This will be the base of your serum. Use enough to bring the total formula to 100%.
• Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule or Super Low Molecule): (Add this) Acts as a gelling agent and powerful humectant. Start with 0.3-0.5%.
• Propanediol: (Add this) A humectant that boosts moisture and can help other ingredients dissolve and absorb. It also has mild preservative-boosting properties. Use 3-5%.
• DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: For skin firming. Recommended usage is 1-3% for sensitive skin (maximum 10%, but higher concentrations can cause irritation). Start low.
• Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8): A peptide for reducing expression wrinkles. Use 3-5% (maximum 10%).
• Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5): A peptide to stimulate collagen synthesis and reduce wrinkles. Use 1-3% (maximum 5%).
• Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): Great for strengthening the skin barrier, reducing redness, and providing moisture. Excellent for sensitive skin. Use 2-5% (Safe-B3™ is high purity and can be used up to 10% without flushing, but start lower for sensitive skin).
• Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR): A peptide blend to stimulate collagen and elastin, reducing wrinkles and improving elasticity. Use 3-5% (maximum 8%).
• Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine): This is a powder ingredient. While it can work with peptides and DMAE for wrinkle reduction, dissolving powders can be tricky for beginners and may require pH adjustment (it's acidic). For your first attempt, you might consider omitting this ingredient to simplify the process. If you choose to use it, the recommended rate is 1-2%, and it needs to be fully dissolved in the water phase.
• Preservative (e.g., PE 1090 or Mild Preserved™ COS): (Add this) Absolutely essential for any water-based product to prevent microbial growth. Use 0.5-1.0% for PE 1090 or 0.75-1.5% for Mild Preserved™ COS, following the supplier's recommendation.
• Penetration Enhancer: You asked if this is necessary. While they can help, they aren't strictly necessary for a basic serum, especially for a beginner. Propanediol, which is already recommended as a humectant, also offers some mild penetration-enhancing properties. The product linked in your question (Sweet Almond Oil) is an oil and not suitable for a water-based serum.

Sample Serum Formula (100%)

Here is a sample formula incorporating your ingredients and the recommended additions. You can adjust the percentages within the recommended ranges based on your preference and how your skin reacts.

• Purified Water: up to 100%
• Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule or Super Low Molecule): 0.3%
• Propanediol: 5%
• DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 2%
• Argireline: 4%
• Pep®-Coll: 2%
• Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 3%
• Matrixyl 3000: 4%

• PE 1090 Preservative: 1%
  (Total: 100%)

• (Note: If you decide to include Wrinkle-Fill™, reduce the Purified Water percentage accordingly. For example, add 1% Wrinkle-Fill™ and reduce water by 1%.)*

Calculating for 30ml and 50ml

To make 30ml or 50ml, calculate the weight of each ingredient based on the total weight (assuming 1ml ≈ 1g for water-based formulas). Using a digital scale that measures to 0.01g is recommended for accuracy.

For 30ml (approx. 30g):

• Purified Water: (100% - sum of other percentages) * 30g
• Hyaluronic Acid: 0.3% * 30g = 0.09g
• Propanediol: 5% * 30g = 1.5g
• DMAE: 2% * 30g = 0.6g
• Argireline: 4% * 30g = 1.2g
• Pep®-Coll: 2% * 30g = 0.6g
• Safe-B3™: 3% * 30g = 0.9g
• Matrixyl 3000: 4% * 30g = 1.2g
• PE 1090 Preservative: 1% * 30g = 0.3g

For 50ml (approx. 50g):

• Purified Water: (100% - sum of other percentages) * 50g
• Hyaluronic Acid: 0.3% * 50g = 0.15g
• Propanediol: 5% * 50g = 2.5g
• DMAE: 2% * 50g = 1.0g
• Argireline: 4% * 50g = 2.0g
• Pep®-Coll: 2% * 50g = 1.0g
• Safe-B3™: 3% * 50g = 1.5g
• Matrixyl 3000: 4% * 50g = 2.0g
• PE 1090 Preservative: 1% * 50g = 0.5g

Basic Mixing Steps

Yes, mixing in a beaker with a spoon or glass rod is the standard method for small batches.

1. Sanitize: Clean your workspace, beaker, stirring tool, and storage bottle with 70% isopropyl alcohol.
2. Weigh Water: Accurately weigh the purified water into the beaker.
3. Disperse Hyaluronic Acid: Slowly sprinkle the Hyaluronic Acid powder onto the surface of the water. Do not stir vigorously yet. Let it sit for a few minutes to start hydrating. Then, stir gently to disperse any clumps. Cover the beaker and let it sit in the refrigerator for several hours (or overnight) until the powder is fully dissolved and a gel is formed. Stir occasionally.
4. Add Other Water-Soluble Ingredients: Once the Hyaluronic Acid gel is smooth, add Propanediol, DMAE, Argireline, Pep®-Coll, Safe-B3™, and Matrixyl 3000 one by one, stirring gently until each is fully incorporated before adding the next.
5. Add Preservative: Add the PE 1090 Preservative as the final ingredient. Stir well to ensure it's evenly distributed.
6. Check pH (Optional but Recommended): If you have pH strips or a meter, check the pH. The ideal range for this serum is typically between 4.0-6.0. Adjust if necessary using a very dilute acid (like Lactic Acid solution) or base (like Sodium Hydroxide solution), adding drop by drop and stirring well before re-measuring.
7. Bottle: Carefully transfer the serum into your clean storage bottle.

Tips for Beginners and Sensitive Skin

• Start Simple: The sample formula provided is a good starting point. Avoid adding too many ingredients at once.
• Patch Test: Always perform a patch test on a small area of skin (like your inner arm) before applying the serum to your face, especially with sensitive skin.
• Cleanliness is Key: Maintaining a clean environment and sanitized tools is crucial to prevent bacterial contamination.
• Storage: Store your finished serum in a cool, dark place, preferably the refrigerator, to maintain its stability and extend its shelf life. Use within 3-6 months.

This formula should provide good anti-aging, firming, and hydrating benefits for your dry, sensitive skin. Good luck with your formulation journey!