Serum Formulation for Exfoliation and Skin Brightening

Question

I am looking for a serum formulation for skin exfoliation and brightening. I have received a suggested formula from the staff and have some questions regarding ingredient substitutions and preparation steps.

The suggested formula includes:

Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid) 5%
Oxyresveratrol Extract 5%
Disodium EDTA 0.2%
1,2-Hexanediol 3%
Double Hyaluron Liquid 0.2%
Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) 1%
Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3 / Niacinamide) 5%
GlucoBright (Glucosamine N-Acetyl) 4%
Purified Water Remaining portion (approx. 76.6%)

My questions are:

Can I substitute Willow Bark Extract with Glycolic Acid (AHA) 100% powder at 5%?
What are the detailed steps for preparing this serum formulation, especially considering the potential substitution with Glycolic Acid and the need to maintain the stability of Oxyresveratrol and Safe-B3?
How do I ensure the pH is not lower than 3.0, and what should I do if it is?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello!

Regarding the formula you inquired about and the feedback from our staff, the formula recommended by the staff is more suitable and enhances the skin whitening effect. The staff adjusted the formula and added ingredients specifically for whitening.

Recommended Formula (Adjusted by Staff):

Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid) 5% (Helps exfoliate skin)
Oxyresveratrol Extract 5% (Skin whitening)
Disodium EDTA 0.2% (Helps chelate metal ions in water)
1,2-Hexanediol 3% (Helps penetrate substances into the skin)
Double Hyaluron Liquid 0.2% (Provides moisture and helps create a thin gel texture)
Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) 1% (Preservative)
Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3 / Niacinamide) 5% (Helps brighten skin)
GlucoBright (Glucosamine N-Acetyl) 4% (Helps brighten skin)
Purified Water Remaining portion (approx. 76.6%)

Note: If you prefer to use glycolic acid (AHA) 100% powder instead of Willow Bark Extract, you can use it at 5% as well. However, it is necessary to measure the pH value of the formula to ensure it is not lower than 3.0, as this can degrade Oxyresveratrol and Safe-B3.

Instructions for Preparation:

Prepare the Water Phase: Weigh the required amount of purified water and pour it into a clean container.
Dissolve Powders in Water: Gradually add Disodium EDTA, Safe-B3, and GlucoBright to the water. Stir well or use a small mixer until all powder ingredients are completely dissolved.
Add Exfoliant (Choose ONE):
- If using Willow Bark Extract: Add Willow Bark Extract to the water phase and stir until combined.
- If using glycolic acid (AHA) 100% powder: Add Glycolic Acid powder to the water phase and stir until completely dissolved. Important: After adding Glycolic Acid, use a pH meter to measure the pH of the mixture. If the pH is below 3.0, carefully add a small amount of pH adjuster (such as Triethanolamine or Sodium Hydroxide solution) drop by drop, stirring and re-measuring the pH until it is above 3.0 (ideally not exceeding 4.0 for AHA efficacy).
Add Other Ingredients: Add Oxyresveratrol Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, and Double Hyaluron Liquid to the mixture. Stir or mix until homogeneous.
Add Preservative: Add Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) to the formula and stir to combine.
Final Check and Packaging: Check the texture and consistency of the formula again. It should be a thin gel or serum texture as desired. Then, pour the finished product into a clean container.

This formula focuses on gentle exfoliation with Willow Bark Extract (or AHA if chosen) and enhances whitening efficacy with Oxyresveratrol, Safe-B3, and GlucoBright, which should meet your needs well.

If you have any further questions, feel free to ask!