Serum Formulation for Melasma and Aging Skin: Compatibility and Concentration Check

ถามโดย: yaowapa เมื่อ: September 07, 2017 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I want to make a serum for my 50-year-old mother who has normal skin, dullness, melasma, sagging skin, and wrinkles.

I want a liquid serum texture that is easy to apply and not sticky.

Here is the formula:

  • Water: 70.8%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • glycerin: 1%
  • Propylene Glycol: 2%
  • Allantoin: 0.3%
  • Pro Polymer™: 0.8%
  • Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5): 1%
  • Vitamin B3: 5%
  • GlucoBright: 3%
  • Tranexamic Acid: 3%
  • Alpha Arbutin: 2%
  • Aloe Vera Extract: 1%
  • FruitPeel™: 3%
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid: 2%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 1%
  • Fragrance: 0.1%

I would like to ask:

  1. Can these ingredients be mixed together?
  2. Are the active ingredients too high in concentration?
  3. Does the staff have any additional recommendations?

Thank you.

คำตอบ

Serum Formulation Feedback

Thank you for providing your serum formulation for your mother. This formula includes several excellent ingredients for addressing melasma, dullness, and signs of aging.

Here is the feedback on your questions:

  1. Can the ingredients be mixed together?
    Yes, the ingredients in your formula are generally compatible. However, it is crucial to ensure the final pH of your serum is within the optimal range for the stability and effectiveness of several key active ingredients, particularly Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin B3, GlucoBright, and FruitPeel. The ideal pH range for this formula is approximately 3.5 to 6.5.

  2. Are the active ingredients too high?
    Your formula contains a potent combination of active ingredients at concentrations that are within the recommended usage rates for each individual ingredient.

    • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) at 5% is an effective concentration for improving skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation.
    • GlucoBright at 3%, especially when combined with Niacinamide, is effective for whitening and dark spots.
    • Tranexamic Acid at 3% is the maximum allowed in cosmetic formulations and is effective for melasma.
    • Alpha Arbutin at 2% is the recommended concentration for skin brightening.
    • FruitPeel at 3% is recommended for gentle exfoliation and improving skin texture.

    While the individual concentrations are appropriate, the combined effect of multiple strong actives means this is a powerful formula. It is always recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it to the entire face, especially for mature or sensitive skin.

  3. Additional Recommendations:

    • pH Adjustment: As mentioned, carefully measure and adjust the final pH of your serum to be between 3.5 and 6.5. This is critical for the stability and efficacy of your active ingredients. You can use a few drops of Lactic Acid or Citric Acid solution to lower the pH or Sodium Hydroxide solution to raise it.
    • Antioxidant for Stability: Consider adding ActiveProtec™ OX at 0.6% to help prevent potential discoloration of the formula over time, as recommended for Alpha Arbutin.
    • Hydration Boost: Your formula includes Double Hyaluron Liquid at 2%. For mature skin, which tends to be drier, increasing the concentration to 3-5% could provide enhanced hydration benefits. This might slightly increase the viscosity, but it would better align with the recommended usage for normal to dry skin.
    • Mixing Pro Polymer: Follow the mixing instructions for Pro Polymer carefully to achieve the desired texture without over-blending. If you pre-mix it with Glycerin or Propylene Glycol, ensure the total amount of these glycols is sufficient (above 5%).
    • Sun Protection: Emphasize the importance of daily sunscreen use. Whitening and exfoliating ingredients can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, and sun exposure is a primary cause of melasma and aging.

Overall, this is a well-designed formula targeting multiple concerns. By paying close attention to the pH and mixing instructions, you should be able to create an effective serum for your mother.

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