Serum Formulation for Melasma, Dark Spots, and Whitening

Question

I am developing a serum formulation aimed at addressing melasma, dark spots, wrinkles, and dryness. I have included the following ingredients. Could you please review the formula, advise on its suitability for these multiple concerns, and provide feedback on the mixing method? Distilled water: remaining Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Azelaic Acid): 10% Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 5% n-acetyl glucosamine (GlucoBright™): 4% Tranexamic Acid: 3% ODA-White Plus™ น้ำมัน: 2% Phenoxyethanol: 1% Disodium EDTA: 0.2% Fragrance: 0.1% glycolic acid: add until pH is around 4.0 Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol): 0.5% Perfect-C: 3% Pro Polymer: 1.5% Myristyl Nicotinate (Pro-Niacin™): 5% Lactobacillus/Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Ferment Extract: 2% WhiteCumin™: 5% Undecylenoyl phenylalanine (MSH White™): 5% shea butter: 3% Organic Virgin Coconut Oil: 3% Polyquaternium-51 (water lock): 2% Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein): 5% Blueberry Pterostilbene: 3% Silky Serum Base Plus: 10%

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on the formula you provided and the feedback from the staff:

Suitability for the user: The original formula contains many beneficial ingredients for addressing melasma, dark spots, wrinkles, and dryness. However, the staff noted that combining all these ingredients into one serum might result in a texture that feels heavy or sticky, especially given the user works in a hot environment, despite having dry skin. They recommended separating the formula into a dedicated whitening serum and a separate formula for moisturizing/anti-aging.
Effectiveness and suggested changes: The original formula includes effective whitening agents. The staff's revised formula focuses specifically on reducing melasma, freckles, and dark spots by keeping key ingredients like Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Niacinamide, n-acetyl glucosamine, Tranexamic Acid, ODA-White Plus (suggested increase to 3%), and Sym-White. They also recommended adding Perfect-C for its different mechanism of action on skin tone and Pro Polymer for texture. Ingredients with overlapping functions or those better suited for moisturizing/anti-aging were suggested for removal (Myristyl Nicotinate, Lemon Peel Ferment Extract, WhiteCumin, MSH White, Shea butter, Coconut Oil, Polyquaternium-51, Soy Extract, Blueberry Pterostilbene, Silk Serum Base Plus). This revised formula is expected to be effective, with results potentially visible within 4 weeks.
Mixing method: The staff commented on the pH adjustment step using glycolic acid in the water phase but did not provide a detailed step-by-step mixing guide for the revised formula. The original mixing method involving separate water and oil phases combined with a base is a common approach, but the staff's suggested ingredient changes would require adjusting the mixing procedure accordingly. We cannot confirm if the original mixing method was entirely correct or provide a new detailed one without further information.

It is crucial, as the staff mentioned, to continue avoiding direct sun exposure during the use of such a formula.