Serum Formulation for Morning Use Under Sunscreen (Non-Pilling)
คำถาม
I am developing a skincare product for morning use under heavy sunscreen. I initially considered separate toner and serum formulas but am now open to combining them into a single serum. The product needs to be fast-absorbing, non-sticky, and crucially, must not pill when a heavy sunscreen is applied on top.
I have been considering incorporating the following ingredients:
- Willowbark Extract
- Safe B3
- GlucoBright
- Ume Extract
- Pep-Coll
- Natto Gum
- L-Carnitine
- AnyGel
- 1,2 Hexanediol
- Mild Preserved Eco
- Disodium EDTA
- Silymarin
- Reservoir-Tech
Based on these ingredients and my requirements (fast-absorbing, non-sticky, non-pilling under heavy sunscreen for morning use), what is the best approach (separate toner/serum vs. combined serum)? How should I formulate it, considering the potential issues with ingredients like Silymarin (color) and Reservoir-Tech (pilling)? Please provide a recommended formula and mixing instructions.
คำตอบ
Subject: Daily Exfoliating Toner
Hello,
Thank you for providing your proposed toner and serum formulas and your requirements for a fast-absorbing, non-sticky feel suitable for layering heavy sunscreen.
Regarding your proposed formulas:
Toner Formula:
- The texture with high water content, 1,2 Hexanediol, and Mild Preserved Eco should be quite light and fast-absorbing. Natto Gum might add a slight emollient feel, but it should still be relatively non-sticky.
- This formula does not contain a dedicated exfoliating ingredient (Willowbark Extract was moved to your serum formula).
- Please note the previous staff feedback that Silymarin can cause the formula to darken, which might not be ideal for a product used in the morning.
Serum Formula:
- The inclusion of AnyGel at 1% will result in a light gel texture, which is fast-absorbing but not strictly "water-like".
- The formula contains excellent ingredients for your desired benefits: Willowbark Extract for mild exfoliation, Safe B3 and GlucoBright for brightening, Ume Extract for antioxidant and anti-glycation, and Pep-Coll for anti-aging.
- However, as previously advised by staff, Reservoir-Tech (3%) is a film-forming ingredient that can cause pilling or incompatibility issues when layering other products, especially heavy sunscreens. To achieve the completely non-sticky, non-pilling finish you desire for use under sunscreen, we strongly recommend removing Reservoir-Tech from this formula.
Considering your goal for a simple, fast-absorbing routine and the staff's previous suggestion, we recommend combining the beneficial ingredients into a single serum formula. This approach is more efficient and ensures better absorption of the active ingredients compared to using a toner with a cotton pad.
Here is a proposed combined serum formula based on your ingredients, excluding Silymarin (due to color) and Reservoir-Tech (due to pilling risk under sunscreen), designed for a light, fast-absorbing feel:
Proposed Combined Morning Serum Formula:
- Water: 68.8%
- Willowbark Extract: 5% (Mild exfoliation, anti-inflammatory)
- AnyGel: 1% (Provides light gel texture)
- Safe B3: 5% (Brightening, anti-aging, barrier support)
- GlucoBright: 4% (Brightening, moisturizing)
- Ume Extract: 3% (Antioxidant, anti-glycation, anti-aging)
- Pep-Coll: 3% (Anti-aging, collagen support)
- Natto Gum: 3% (Moisturizing, skin conditioning)
- L-Carnitine: 3% (Skin conditioning, potential sebum regulation)
- 1,2 Hexanediol: 3% (Solvent, humectant, texture enhancer)
- Mild Preserved Eco: 1% (Preservative)
- Disodium EDTA: 0.2% (Chelating agent)
This formula will have a light, fast-absorbing gel texture that should layer well under sunscreen. It provides mild exfoliation, antioxidant protection, brightening, and anti-aging benefits.
Mixing Instructions:
- Combine Water, Disodium EDTA, 1,2 Hexanediol, Mild Preserved Eco, AnyGel. Stir well until AnyGel is fully dispersed and the mixture starts to thicken into a uniform gel.
- Add Willowbark Extract, Safe B3, GlucoBright, Ume Extract, Pep-Coll, Natto Gum, L-Carnitine. Stir until all ingredients are fully dissolved and incorporated.
- Check the pH and adjust if necessary (Willowbark Extract might lower pH slightly, but the overall formula should be buffered by other ingredients like Niacinamide; aim for a skin-compatible pH, typically 5.0-6.0).
This combined serum should meet your requirements for a daily morning product that is effective, fast-absorbing, non-sticky, and compatible with heavy sunscreen application.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
Disodium EDTA
Natto Gum Extract
1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
Silybum Marianum Extract (Liquid)
Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid)
Reservoir-Tech