Serum Formulation for Morning Use Under Sunscreen (Non-Pilling)

ถามโดย: maigonix เมื่อ: August 31, 2017 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am developing a skincare product for morning use under heavy sunscreen. I initially considered separate toner and serum formulas but am now open to combining them into a single serum. The product needs to be fast-absorbing, non-sticky, and crucially, must not pill when a heavy sunscreen is applied on top.

I have been considering incorporating the following ingredients:

  • Willowbark Extract
  • Safe B3
  • GlucoBright
  • Ume Extract
  • Pep-Coll
  • Natto Gum
  • L-Carnitine
  • AnyGel
  • 1,2 Hexanediol
  • Mild Preserved Eco
  • Disodium EDTA
  • Silymarin
  • Reservoir-Tech

Based on these ingredients and my requirements (fast-absorbing, non-sticky, non-pilling under heavy sunscreen for morning use), what is the best approach (separate toner/serum vs. combined serum)? How should I formulate it, considering the potential issues with ingredients like Silymarin (color) and Reservoir-Tech (pilling)? Please provide a recommended formula and mixing instructions.

คำตอบ

Subject: Daily Exfoliating Toner

Hello,

Thank you for providing your proposed toner and serum formulas and your requirements for a fast-absorbing, non-sticky feel suitable for layering heavy sunscreen.

Regarding your proposed formulas:

  • Toner Formula:

    • The texture with high water content, 1,2 Hexanediol, and Mild Preserved Eco should be quite light and fast-absorbing. Natto Gum might add a slight emollient feel, but it should still be relatively non-sticky.
    • This formula does not contain a dedicated exfoliating ingredient (Willowbark Extract was moved to your serum formula).
    • Please note the previous staff feedback that Silymarin can cause the formula to darken, which might not be ideal for a product used in the morning.
  • Serum Formula:

    • The inclusion of AnyGel at 1% will result in a light gel texture, which is fast-absorbing but not strictly "water-like".
    • The formula contains excellent ingredients for your desired benefits: Willowbark Extract for mild exfoliation, Safe B3 and GlucoBright for brightening, Ume Extract for antioxidant and anti-glycation, and Pep-Coll for anti-aging.
    • However, as previously advised by staff, Reservoir-Tech (3%) is a film-forming ingredient that can cause pilling or incompatibility issues when layering other products, especially heavy sunscreens. To achieve the completely non-sticky, non-pilling finish you desire for use under sunscreen, we strongly recommend removing Reservoir-Tech from this formula.

Considering your goal for a simple, fast-absorbing routine and the staff's previous suggestion, we recommend combining the beneficial ingredients into a single serum formula. This approach is more efficient and ensures better absorption of the active ingredients compared to using a toner with a cotton pad.

Here is a proposed combined serum formula based on your ingredients, excluding Silymarin (due to color) and Reservoir-Tech (due to pilling risk under sunscreen), designed for a light, fast-absorbing feel:

Proposed Combined Morning Serum Formula:

  • Water: 68.8%
  • Willowbark Extract: 5% (Mild exfoliation, anti-inflammatory)
  • AnyGel: 1% (Provides light gel texture)
  • Safe B3: 5% (Brightening, anti-aging, barrier support)
  • GlucoBright: 4% (Brightening, moisturizing)
  • Ume Extract: 3% (Antioxidant, anti-glycation, anti-aging)
  • Pep-Coll: 3% (Anti-aging, collagen support)
  • Natto Gum: 3% (Moisturizing, skin conditioning)
  • L-Carnitine: 3% (Skin conditioning, potential sebum regulation)
  • 1,2 Hexanediol: 3% (Solvent, humectant, texture enhancer)
  • Mild Preserved Eco: 1% (Preservative)
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2% (Chelating agent)

This formula will have a light, fast-absorbing gel texture that should layer well under sunscreen. It provides mild exfoliation, antioxidant protection, brightening, and anti-aging benefits.

Mixing Instructions:

  1. Combine Water, Disodium EDTA, 1,2 Hexanediol, Mild Preserved Eco, AnyGel. Stir well until AnyGel is fully dispersed and the mixture starts to thicken into a uniform gel.
  2. Add Willowbark Extract, Safe B3, GlucoBright, Ume Extract, Pep-Coll, Natto Gum, L-Carnitine. Stir until all ingredients are fully dissolved and incorporated.
  3. Check the pH and adjust if necessary (Willowbark Extract might lower pH slightly, but the overall formula should be buffered by other ingredients like Niacinamide; aim for a skin-compatible pH, typically 5.0-6.0).

This combined serum should meet your requirements for a daily morning product that is effective, fast-absorbing, non-sticky, and compatible with heavy sunscreen application.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Disodium EDTA
Disodium EDTA
เครื่องสำอาง
Natto Gum Extract
Natto Gum Extract
เครื่องสำอาง
1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless)
1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless)
เครื่องสำอาง
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
เครื่องสำอาง
Silybum Marianum Extract (Liquid)
Silybum Marianum Extract (Liquid)
เครื่องสำอาง
Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid)
Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid)
เครื่องสำอาง
Reservoir-Tech
Reservoir-Tech
เครื่องสำอาง
AnyGel™
AnyGel™
เครื่องสำอาง