Serum Formulation for Oily, Acne-Prone Skin: Silicone Content and Preservation

Asked by: pyepie.panna On: October 18, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have oily, acne-prone skin with red and dark marks. I am developing a serum and have the following proposed formula:

  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  • Glucosamine (Acetyl Glucosamine)
  • Centella Asiatica Extract
  • Green Tea Extract (Hi-EGCG)
  • Cyclomethicone
  • Silicone Gel
  1. Is this formula suitable for my skin type and concerns? I'm particularly concerned about the high percentage of Cyclomethicone and Silicone Gel potentially clogging pores, as advised by staff.
  2. Is it necessary to include Phenoxyethanol in this serum formula?
  3. Staff suggested an alternative water-based gel formula with Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Green Tea Extract, Zinc PCA, MSM (Pure MSM), Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A), and Pro Polymer. What are your thoughts on this alternative compared to my proposed formula?

Answer

Serum Formulation for Oily, Acne-Prone Skin

Regarding your proposed serum formulation and its suitability for oily, acne-prone skin with red and dark marks, here's an evaluation based on the ingredients:

Suitability of Your Proposed Formula

Your formula includes several excellent active ingredients for your concerns:

  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Known to help reduce oiliness, improve skin barrier function, reduce redness, and fade dark spots.
  • Glucosamine (Acetyl Glucosamine): Works synergistically with Vitamin B3 to address hyperpigmentation and can help improve skin hydration.
  • Centella Asiatica Extract: Beneficial for soothing inflammation, promoting wound healing (helpful for acne marks), and stimulating collagen production.
  • Green Tea Extract (Hi-EGCG): A powerful antioxidant with anti-inflammatory and oil-reducing properties, also helpful for acne.

These active ingredients are well-suited for addressing oiliness, acne marks (both red and dark), and overall skin health.

However, the high percentage of Cyclomethicone and Silicone Gel might be a concern for skin that is highly prone to clogging, as indicated by the staff's advice. While silicones can provide a pleasant, smooth texture and help spread active ingredients, they can potentially feel heavy or occlusive for some individuals with easily congested skin, despite feeling lightweight initially.

Necessity of Phenoxyethanol

Yes, it is necessary to include a broad-spectrum preservative like Phenoxyethanol in your serum formula. Since your formula contains water and botanical extracts (Centella Asiatica, Green Tea), it is highly susceptible to contamination by bacteria, mold, and yeast. A preservative system is crucial to prevent microbial growth, ensuring the safety, stability, and shelf-life of your product.

Alternative Approach Suggested by Staff

The staff's suggestion to create a lighter, water-based gel aligns with the goal of minimizing potential pore clogging for easily congested skin. The ingredients they recommended are also highly beneficial:

  • Vitamin B3 and N-Acetyl Glucosamine: As mentioned, great for marks and skin barrier.
  • Green Tea Extract: For antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and oil control benefits.
  • Zinc PCA: Specifically targets oil reduction and has anti-acne properties.
  • MSM (Pure MSM): Can help control oil production and has anti-inflammatory effects.
  • Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A): Known for reducing inflammation, redness, and oiliness.
  • Pro Polymer: A suitable gel maker for creating a lightweight, water-based texture without relying on silicones.

This alternative formulation focuses on potent water-soluble actives in a non-silicone base, which could be more suitable if you find that silicone-heavy formulas contribute to your breakouts.

Conclusion

Your proposed formula contains effective ingredients for treating marks and improving skin health. However, the high silicone content might not be ideal for very clog-prone skin, as advised by the staff. Including Phenoxyethanol is essential for preserving the formula. The staff's suggested silicone-free gel formula is a valid alternative worth considering if you are concerned about silicones contributing to your acne.