Serum Formulation for Oily Skin Using Retin-A: Texture and Ingredient Questions

Question

I have oily skin and am currently using Retin-A, which causes some dryness and peeling. I want to adapt a serum formula, similar to Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum, focusing on strengthening the skin barrier. I am concerned about the serum feeling sticky if I add many active ingredients.

I have specific questions about the formulation:

If I want the gel to be slightly liquid, is 1% Pro Polymer (Acrylate Crosspolymer) too much? What would the texture be like at 1%?
With the active ingredients I plan to use, will the serum feel sticky? Should I adjust or remove any ingredients?
Should I dissolve Bisabolol in Ethoxydiglycol first before mixing with the water phase? Or can Ethoxydiglycol be mixed directly into the water phase?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Serum formula for oily skin needing strength and hydration

Hello,

Regarding your serum formula for oily skin that needs strengthening and hydration, especially while using Retin-A, here are the answers based on the staff's advice:

Pro Polymer concentration: The staff cannot definitively say if 1% Pro Polymer is too much for a "slightly liquid" gel, as the desired consistency is subjective. They recommend starting with a lower concentration, such as 0.3%, and gradually increasing it until you achieve the desired texture. They also suggest considering Pro Polymer™ Silk (Polyquaternium-37) instead of regular Pro Polymer™ (Acrylate Crosspolymer) as it provides a smoother, less sticky feel, although regular Pro Polymer is also fine.
Stickiness and active ingredients: The staff recommends adjusting the active ingredients to focus on balancing oil and reducing irritation, especially since you are using Retin-A. They suggest removing Natural Betaine and Ethoxydiglycol from your proposed formula. Instead, they recommend adding Licorice Extract (to reduce irritation and balance oil) and Zinc PCA (to balance oil, reduce acne and inflammation, and promote wound healing). If your skin is red, you could also consider adding Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) at 2-3%, but avoid using too much as it can feel sticky.
Bisabolol mixing: It is not necessary to dissolve Bisabolol in Ethoxydiglycol first. Ethoxydiglycol can be mixed directly into the water phase. Bisabolol is an oil and should be added in the final step after the gel texture has been formed by the thickener (Pro Polymer or Pro Polymer Silk). The thickener will help emulsify the Bisabolol into the formula.

The staff also emphasized the importance of adjusting your Retin-A usage to avoid peeling, as peeling prevents effective absorption of any skincare products. Focus on continuous skin strengthening and preventing irritation with your serum while using Retin-A.