Serum Formulation for Skin Repair, Hydration, and Brightening (Water Base)

Asked by: apinyawut.watechapan On: February 28, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I need a water-based serum focused on skin repair, hydration, and brightening. I plan to use Galactomyces as the water base.

My skin type is oily with large pores and slight acne. I primarily use products at night.

I'd like to include the following active ingredients and texture enhancers at these percentages:

Active Ingredients:

  1. Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka. Pitera) 62%
  2. Repair Activator™ 15%
  3. Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 4%
  4. GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%
  5. Activated Resorcinol™ 1%

Texture Enhancers/Penetration Enhancers:

  1. Laurocapram (Water Soluble) 2%
  2. Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear) 5%
  3. Satin Cream Maker™ 1%
  4. Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3%
  5. Phospholipid 3%

Could you advise on this formulation?

Answer

Serum Formulation for Skin Repair, Hydration, and Brightening

Here is a formulation based on your requested active ingredients and texture enhancers for a serum targeting skin repair, hydration, and brightening, suitable for oily, acne-prone skin for nighttime use.

Important Note: The percentages you provided sum up to 100%. This formulation is based on these percentages, but it's crucial to understand that this leaves no room for water or other essential components like preservatives and pH adjusters needed for a stable and effective water-based serum. You will need to adjust the percentages of these ingredients to incorporate a water base and other necessary additives.

Proposed Formulation (Based on your provided percentages):

  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate: 62%
  • Repair Activator™ BG: 15%
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 4%
  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): 4%
  • Activated Resorcinol™: 1%
  • Laurocapram (Water Soluble): 2%
  • Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear): 5%
  • Satin Cream Maker™: 1%
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): 3%
  • Phospholipid: 3%

Ingredient Functions:

  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate: Known for revitalizing and hydrating the skin, leaving it smooth.
  • Repair Activator™ BG: Helps repair skin DNA damaged by UV light and has anti-aging benefits.
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Reduces wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, adds moisture by stimulating collagen and ceramide production, strengthens the skin barrier, reduces oiliness, and is suitable for acne-prone skin.
  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): Works with Niacinamide for whitening and reducing dark spots, stimulates hyaluronic acid production for moisture, and can help reduce acne breakouts.
  • Activated Resorcinol™: A potent skin brightener that reduces the activity of enzymes involved in pigment production. Note that the Activated Resorcinol™ you specified is oil-soluble. For a water-based serum, the water-soluble NanoRes™ (Liposome 4-Butyl Resorcinol) might be a more suitable alternative for easier incorporation.
  • Laurocapram (Water Soluble): Acts as a penetration enhancer for water-soluble active ingredients.
  • Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear): Improves spreadability, provides a soft, smooth, non-sticky, and light feel, and can give a matte look.
  • Satin Cream Maker™: A heat-free emulsifier and thickener that helps create the serum texture and incorporate oil/silicone components into the water phase.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): A solvent and penetration enhancer that helps carry various ingredients into the skin.
  • Phospholipid: Can help ingredients penetrate the skin better, moisturizes, nourishes the skin barrier, and reduces irritation. It requires both water and oil phases to be dispersed.

Mixing Method Considerations:

Given the heat sensitivity of some ingredients (Activated Resorcinol, Galactomyces, Repair Activator, Phospholipid), a cold process or low-heat process (below 40°C) is recommended.

  1. Combine the water-soluble ingredients (Galactomyces, Repair Activator, Safe-B3, GlucoBright, Laurocapram, DMI) in the water phase.
  2. Disperse Satin Cream Maker™ in the water phase and mix well.
  3. In a separate container, disperse Phospholipid in a small amount of oil or a portion of the water phase at room temperature (below 40°C) and blend well.
  4. Dissolve the oil-soluble Activated Resorcinol™ in a suitable oil phase (like the Silicone Gel or a small amount of another oil compatible with your formula).
  5. Gradually add the oil phase containing Activated Resorcinol™ and Silicone Gel to the water phase while mixing continuously to create an emulsion/serum texture.
  6. Add the dispersed Phospholipid to the main mixture and blend until homogeneous.
  7. Ensure thorough mixing (at least 1000 rpm for 15 minutes after adding Phospholipid) but avoid excessive speed (above 2500 rpm for Satin Cream Maker).
  8. Adjust pH to the optimal range (around 4.5-5.5) for ingredient stability and efficacy.
  9. Add a suitable preservative system.

Further Considerations:

  • You will need to adjust the percentages to include water (the base of your serum) and a preservative.
  • Consider using NanoRes™ (Liposome 4-Butyl Resorcinol) instead of Activated Resorcinol™ for easier incorporation into a water-based formula.
  • Perform stability testing on your final formulation.