Serum Formulation for Whitening, Anti-Aging, and Lifting: Ingredient Compatibility and Stability

Asked by: angkana_kung On: June 10, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a serum formulation for skin aged 30+ targeting whitening, wrinkle reduction, and lifting. The proposed ingredients and their purposes are as follows:

  • Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) 1%, water-soluble liquid: For oil control, acne.
  • Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) 20%, oil-soluble powder: For oil control, acne.
  • Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, water-soluble powder: For anti-irritation (should be used with 4 or 5).
  • Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, oil-soluble powder: For anti-irritation (should be used with 3).
  • Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid, oil-soluble liquid: For anti-irritation (should be used with 3).
  • Licorice Extract (Glabridin 40%), soluble in Butylene Glycol, powder: For whitening, anti-irritation.
  • Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%), soluble in Butylene Glycol, powder: For whitening, anti-irritation.

Could you please provide feedback on this formulation regarding ingredient compatibility, stability, and overall effectiveness for the stated goals?

Answer

Analysis of Your Proposed Serum Formulation

Here is an analysis of your proposed serum formulation targeting whitening, wrinkle reduction, and lifting for skin aged 30+.

Ingredients and Their Potential Benefits:

  • For Whitening:

    • AA2G (Ascorbyl Glucoside): A stable Vitamin C derivative effective for whitening and brightening by reducing free radicals and stimulating collagen.
    • Resveratrol LongMax: Can help brighten skin tone.
    • Safe B3 (Niacinamide): Beneficial for reducing hyperpigmentation.
    • Licorice Extract: For whitening, a type containing Glabridin is needed (e.g., Pure-Glabridin™, Hi-Glabridin™, or water-soluble Glabridin types). Other types like Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) or Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate focus on anti-irritation/oil control and do not whiten. Clarification on the specific type is needed.
  • For Wrinkle Reduction and Lifting:

    • Ectoine: Provides anti-aging effects, including wrinkle reduction and improved elasticity, along with cell protection and anti-irritation.
    • Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate): Helps repair UV-damaged skin DNA, contributing to anti-aging.
    • AA2G (Ascorbyl Glucoside): Stimulates collagen synthesis, aiding firmness and wrinkle reduction.
    • Resveratrol LongMax: Accelerates Collagen IV synthesis and helps make skin firm.
    • Safe B3 (Niacinamide): Stimulates collagen and ceramide production for stronger skin and reduced wrinkles.
    • Encapsulated Vitamin A Derivative: Ingredients like Retinal-EZ™ (Encapsulated Retinal) or HyaRetin™ (Encapsulated Retinoic Acid) are effective for wrinkle reduction and anti-aging. Retinal is a potent form converted to Retinoic Acid in the skin.
  • For Hydration:

    • Double Hyaluron Liquid: Provides moisture to different skin layers.
    • Safe B3 (Niacinamide): Adds moisture and strengthens the skin barrier.
    • Ectoine: Also contributes to skin hydration.
  • Other Ingredients:

    • Gac extract in Coconut Oil & Zingiber officinate root extract: Specific skin benefits from available data are limited. Dried Ginger (for oil-based) was found but lacks detailed skin benefit information.
    • Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): A stable antioxidant protecting the formula and skin from free radicals.

Potential Formulation Challenges:

  • Incompatibility: AA2G (Ascorbyl Glucoside) is incompatible with Safe B3 (Niacinamide). Using them together will likely compromise AA2G's stability and effectiveness.
  • pH Requirements: Achieving optimal pH for all active ingredients simultaneously is challenging due to conflicting requirements (e.g., AA2G needs pH 6.5-6.8, Safe B3 is best at pH 4.0-7.0, Resveratrol LongMax is best at pH 3-6.5).
  • Licorice Type: The specific type of Licorice extract (whitening Glabridin vs. anti-irritation Licochalcone A/Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate) needs to be confirmed.
  • Stability: Resveratrol LongMax and encapsulated Vitamin A derivatives are light-sensitive and require appropriate packaging. Resveratrol LongMax also needs oil for release.

Summary:

Your formula contains promising ingredients for your goals. However, the incompatibility between AA2G and Safe B3 is a major issue. You may need to choose between them or use alternative forms/formulate separate products. Clarifying the Licorice type and managing the pH and stability requirements of sensitive ingredients are also critical for a successful and effective serum.