Serum Formulation Review and Recommendations

Thank you for providing your serum formulation for whitening, brightening, wrinkle reduction, and dark spot treatment. This formula contains a potent combination of active ingredients targeting these concerns, suitable for normal skin.

Formula Suitability

Your selection of ingredients like Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine), Liquid Azelaic, MSH White Absorb, and Activated Resorcinol provides a strong multi-modal approach to addressing hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. Ingredients such as Soy Extract and Ume Extract contribute anti-aging benefits, while Panthenol ExtraLite (Vitamin B5), Centella Asiatica Extract, and Alpha Bisabolol offer soothing and skin-strengthening properties, which is beneficial when using multiple actives. Centella Asiatica Extract also helps reduce redness and promotes skin healing.

The concentrations of most active ingredients are within or at the higher end of the recommended usage rates, suggesting this could be a highly effective serum.

One critical aspect to consider is the pH of the final formulation. Several ingredients have specific pH requirements for optimal stability and efficacy. You should aim for a pH that balances the needs of all ingredients, ideally between 5.0-6.0, but please refer to the specific pH recommendations for each raw material you are using, especially Liquid Azelaic and Activated Resorcinol.

Additionally, the amount of water (55%) is slightly below the recommended minimum (60%) for optimal stability when using Silky Serum Base Plus. The manufacturer of Silky Serum Base Plus recommends adding 1-2% Magnesium Sulfate for improved formula stability.

Mixing Instructions

Here are the recommended steps for mixing your serum:

1. In your main beaker, combine the Distilled Water and Disodium EDTA. Stir until the EDTA is fully dissolved.
2. Add the water-soluble ingredients that can tolerate some heat: Safe-B3, GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine), and Panthenol ExtraLite (Vitamin B5). Stir until dissolved. Gentle heating (below 40°C) can be used if needed for dissolution, but avoid prolonged heat.
3. In a separate container, combine the oil-soluble ingredients: MSH White Absorb, Activated Resorcinol, and Alpha Bisabolol, with the Silky Serum Base Plus. Stir or blend thoroughly until homogeneous. Avoid using heat in this step, especially for Activated Resorcinol.
4. While continuously stirring or blending the oil phase mixture, gradually add the water phase mixture in small increments. Ensure each addition is fully incorporated before adding the next. Continue until all the water phase is added and the serum texture is formed.
5. Once the serum is homogeneous and has cooled to below 40°C, add the heat-sensitive water-soluble ingredients: Liquid Azelaic, Soy Extract, and Ume Extract. Stir or blend until fully incorporated.
6. Add the preservative, Phenoxyethanol SA. Stir or blend until fully incorporated. Ensure the temperature is below 60°C.
7. If you choose to add Magnesium Sulfate for stability, dissolve the recommended amount (1-2%) in a small amount of water and add it to the serum in the final step, blending until fully dispersed.
8. Check and adjust the final pH of the serum to the desired range (e.g., 5.0-6.0).

Enhancing Skin Feel

To achieve a smoother, softer feel similar to high-end serums, you can enhance the texture provided by the Silky Serum Base Plus. Consider adding a small percentage (e.g., 1-3%) of a powder ingredient known for its silky feel and slip, such as SiliSilk™ 1.5Micron. This can be added in the final step (after the preservative) and blended well into the serum.

Conclusion

Your formula is well-designed with effective ingredients for your skin concerns. Paying close attention to the mixing order, temperature, and final pH will be crucial for the stability and performance of the serum. Adding Magnesium Sulfate and a silky-feel powder like SiliSilk™ can further improve the texture and stability.