Serum formulation for wrinkles and brightening: Ingredient compatibility and pH stability
คำถาม
I am creating a serum for wrinkle reduction and skin brightening, aiming for a lightweight serum or essence texture. The formula includes the following ingredients: 1. Distilled Water 79%, 2. Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) 3%, 3. Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 3%, 4. Adenosine Liposome 3%, 5. MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine) 2%, 6. Z-White™ 1%, 7. Laurocapram (Water Soluble) 2%, 8. Flora Solve™ Clear 5%, 9. Tranexamic Acid 2%. I want to know if all these ingredients can be mixed together in this formula without issues. Specifically, can MSH White™ be dissolved directly in Flora Solve™ Clear to replace the oil phase (as I don't want oil in the formula)? If so, after dissolving, can I add this mixture directly to the prepared water phase? Do I need to use any additional emulsifiers? Also, regarding the pH of the ingredients in the formula, such as Tranexamic Acid (pH 6.5-7.5) and Adenosine Liposome (pH 3.5-6.5), I am concerned that if the overall pH of the mixture is around 6.8, it might reduce the effectiveness of Adenosine Liposome or other ingredients. Is it necessary to adjust the pH of the formula? Thank you.
คำตอบ
Serum Formulation Review
Overall, the combination of active ingredients you've chosen targets both wrinkles (Copper Peptide, Pep®-Coll, Adenosine Liposome) and skin brightening (MSH White™, Z-White™, Tranexamic Acid). Laurocapram is included as a penetration enhancer, and Flora Solve™ Clear is intended as a solubilizer.
Ingredient Compatibility and Mixing
Most of the ingredients are water-soluble and should be compatible in a water-based serum formulation.
Regarding your specific question about MSH White™ and Flora Solve™ Clear:
- MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine) is an oil-soluble powder.
- Flora Solve™ Clear is a solubilizer designed to incorporate oils, fragrances, and other oil-soluble ingredients into water-based formulas without needing a traditional oil phase or emulsifier.
- The description for MSH White™ recommends dissolving it in the oil phase with heat (around 80°C). The description for Flora Solve™ Clear states it can dissolve "any ingredients in oil form" and should be mixed with the oil/ingredient first (at a ratio of 2-5 parts Flora Solve™ Clear to 1 part oil/ingredient) before adding this mixture to the water phase.
Therefore, you can dissolve MSH White™ in Flora Solve™ Clear using heat (following the MSH White™ instruction for dissolution temperature) and then add this resulting mixture to your water phase. Flora Solve™ Clear acts as the solubilizer/microemulsifier in this case, so you do not need an additional emulsifier to incorporate the MSH White™ using this method.
However, please note that Laurocapram (Water Soluble) is specified as a penetration enhancer primarily for water-soluble active substances. It may not effectively enhance the penetration of MSH White™ (oil-soluble) or potentially Adenosine Liposome (depending on its exact form and solubility).
The solubility of Adenosine Liposome is also a point to consider. Based on the information for related Adenosine products, some forms are not highly water-soluble and are better dispersed in cream or gel bases. Ensure your specific Adenosine Liposome is suitable for a water-based serum formulation and disperses or dissolves properly.
pH Concerns
You are right to be concerned about the pH. Different active ingredients have optimal pH ranges for stability and efficacy:
- Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) is most stable in a pH range of 4.5-7.4.
- Tranexamic Acid is stable in formulations with a pH range of 3-8.
- Based on information for Pure-Adenosine™, a related ingredient, formulations containing it are often recommended to be in the pH range of 3.5-6.5 for optimal performance.
If your final formula pH is around 6.8, it falls within the stable range for Copper Peptide and Tranexamic Acid. However, it is slightly above the optimal range (3.5-6.5) for the Adenosine component (assuming the pH sensitivity is similar to Pure-Adenosine™).
To ensure the best stability and efficacy for all your active ingredients, especially the Adenosine component, it is necessary to adjust the final pH of your serum. Aim for a pH that falls within the overlapping optimal ranges of your ingredients. A pH range between 4.5 and 6.5 would be suitable, as it accommodates the stability requirements of Copper Peptide, Tranexamic Acid, and the Adenosine component. Adjusting the pH to this range after all ingredients are mixed will help maintain their effectiveness over time.
In summary, your proposed formula is generally viable, but pay close attention to dissolving MSH White™ correctly with Flora Solve™ Clear and, importantly, adjust the final pH to the 4.5-6.5 range for optimal stability and performance of all active ingredients.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine)
Flora Solve™ Clear (Fragrance Solubilizer)
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
Laurocapram (Water Soluble)
Pure-Adenosine™