Serum Formulation for Wrinkles, Freckles, Melasma, and Dry Skin
Question
I have skin concerns including wrinkles, freckles, melasma, uneven skin tone, and overall dryness, although my T-zone is slightly oily. I would like to make a serum to address these issues. Could you recommend ingredients and provide basic guidance on formulating a serum for my skin type?
Answer
Serum Formulation for Wrinkles, Freckles, Melasma, Uneven Skin Tone, and Dryness
For those experiencing wrinkles, freckles, melasma, uneven skin tone, dryness, and slight oiliness in the T-zone, you can select these ingredients to create a skin nourishing serum. The focus is on ingredients that promote radiance, reduce dark spots, and provide hydration to strengthen the skin barrier.
Recommended Ingredients
- For reducing freckles, melasma, dark spots, and improving uneven skin tone:
- Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): Helps reduce freckles, melasma, dark spots, and controls skin oiliness, suitable for the slightly oily T-zone.
- Activated Resorcinol™: Highly effective in reducing pigment production, helps brighten skin and reduce melasma.
- Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): Helps reduce melanin formation, suitable for melasma and uneven skin tone issues.
- For reducing wrinkles:
- Retinol: Vitamin A that helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
- Pep®-Synthe6: A peptide that helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
- For increasing moisture and strengthening the skin barrier (for dry skin):
- MOIST72™: Provides long-lasting hydration, suitable for dry skin.
- Ceramide Complex: Helps restore the skin barrier, making skin stronger and reducing water loss, suitable for dry and sensitive skin.
Basic Serum Mixing
Formulating a serum with these ingredients requires considering the solubility and mixing method of each component.
- Choose a Serum Base: Select a serum base suitable for your skin type (dry with an oily T-zone). This could be a lightweight gel base or a base that can incorporate both water-soluble and oil-soluble components. Consider exploring serum bases available at MySkinRecipes.
- Prepare Ingredients:
- Water-soluble ingredients such as Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™), Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™), MOIST72™, and Pep®-Synthe6 can be mixed into the water phase of the base or added in the final step below 40°C.
- Oil-soluble/dispersible ingredients like Activated Resorcinol™ and Ceramide Complex need to be dissolved or dispersed in a suitable oil or glycol using heat according to each ingredient's instructions before being combined with the main base.
- Retinol is soluble in alcohol or certain oils and should be mixed in the appropriate phase, avoiding heat and light.
- Add Stabilizers: It is recommended to use Disodium EDTA and ActiveProtec™ OX as advised for Activated Resorcinol™ and Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™) to help maintain stability and prevent formula discoloration.
- Adjust pH: The pH of the serum should be adjusted to a range suitable for the main ingredients. Generally, a pH around 4.5-5.5 is suitable for Activated Resorcinol™ and is also within the acceptable range for most other ingredients.
- Combine: Gradually mix the prepared ingredients into the serum base following the correct procedure for the specific type of serum you are making.
- Storage: Serums containing ingredients like Activated Resorcinol™ and Retinol should be stored in opaque containers and kept in the refrigerator to maintain quality.
Precautions:
- Always perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying to the entire face.
- Some ingredients, such as Retinol and Activated Resorcinol™, may increase skin sensitivity to sunlight. Regular use of sunscreen during the day is essential.
When making your own serum, it is crucial to study the information for each ingredient thoroughly and strictly follow the mixing and usage instructions.
Related Products Mentioned
MOIST72™
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
Retinol (100% Pure Powder)