Serum Formulation: Ingredients, Mixing, and Compatibility

Asked by: phatnari.c On: May 17, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a serum formulation for anti-aging and brightening. My proposed formula includes:

  • Argireline
  • Pep-Coll
  • DMAE
  • Vitamin B5 ExtraLite
  • N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine
  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic Acid (Standard and Nano)
  • Water
  • Phenoxyethanol

I have some questions regarding the formulation process and compatibility:

  1. Is pH adjustment required for this formula?
  2. For normal skin, is it necessary to add specific irritation-reducing agents?
  3. Can this formula be used concurrently with a Vitamin C E Ferulic formula?
  4. Regarding the mixing method, I plan to dissolve water-soluble ingredients sequentially. I currently have Hyaluronic Acid in powder form but have seen that liquid forms are easier to mix. Are there any specific considerations or challenges with using the powder form compared to liquid, and is my sequential mixing approach correct?

Additionally, I would appreciate suggestions for improving the formula, particularly regarding ingredient concentrations and texture.

Answer

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your detailed serum formulation plan and questions. Based on your goals for anti-aging and brightening, and the feedback from the staff, here is a summary and response to your questions:

Your proposed formula includes Argireline, Pep-Coll, DMAE, Vitamin B5 ExtraLite, N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid (Standard and Nano), Water, and Phenoxyethanol. This combination targets wrinkles, improves skin texture, and addresses hyperpigmentation.

Addressing your questions:

  1. PH Adjustment: The staff did not explicitly state that pH adjustment is required. However, for optimal stability and efficacy of active ingredients and skin compatibility, it is generally good practice to check and potentially adjust the final pH of your serum.
  2. Irritation Reducers: According to the staff, for normal skin, adding specific irritation-reducing agents is not necessary. Vitamin B5 ExtraLite in your formula already helps indirectly by keeping the skin moisturized and strong, which reduces the likelihood of irritation.
  3. Combining with C E Ferulic: As the staff explained, this new formula should not be used at the same time as the Vitamin C E Ferulic formula. Using them concurrently would cause the Vitamin C to degrade due to the presence of Niacinamide. Your plan to finish the C E Ferulic formula first and then use this new formula is correct.
  4. Mixing Method: Your general approach of dissolving water-soluble ingredients sequentially is correct. The staff noted that using liquid forms of ingredients, such as Double Hyaluron Liquid instead of the Hyaluronic Acid powders you currently have, would make the mixing process much easier and faster, allowing all water-soluble ingredients to be mixed at once without the need for refrigeration for dissolving Hyaluronic Acid powder. You can proceed with your current powders, but be aware of the extra steps involved.

Suggestions for Formula Improvement (Based on Staff Feedback):

  • Niacinamide (Safe-B3): The staff suggested increasing the concentration of Niacinamide from 2% to 5% for enhanced brightening efficacy.
  • Hyaluronic Acid: For normal skin, the staff recommended reducing the total Hyaluronic Acid concentration from 0.4% (0.2% Standard + 0.2% Nano) to a total of 0.2% (e.g., 0.1% Standard + 0.1% Nano). The current amount is more than needed, especially with 2% Vitamin B5 ExtraLite also providing moisture.
  • Texture: The staff mentioned your formula will be quite liquid. If you prefer a slightly thicker, gel-like texture, you could consider adding a thickener like Pro Polymer at around 1%. However, please note that DMAE in the formula can make thickening more challenging and may require mechanical mixing.

Your thoughtful approach to formulating based on your experience and research is commendable. Using up your existing ingredients like the Hyaluronic Acid powders before trying alternatives is a practical approach.

We hope this information helps you create a serum that meets your skin goals!