Serum Formulation Issue: Separation and Liquid Texture

Question

I am trying to formulate a serum using Cyclomethicone and Warp Cream Maker. I mixed the Cyclomethicone with the Warp Cream Maker, stirring for a long time as it didn't dissolve well. When it started to dissolve, I poured in the water phase. The result was that the Warp Cream Maker floated as lumps and the mixture separated completely, not mixing together at all.

Could you please advise on the correct mixing procedure to prevent separation and achieve the desired serum texture when using Cyclomethicone and Warp Cream Maker, especially regarding the addition of the water phase?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Serum Formulation Issue: Separation and Liquid Texture

It appears the issue with your serum formulation separating and remaining liquid stems from the mixing process, specifically how the Cyclomethicone and Warp Cream Maker were combined before adding the water phase.

Warp Cream Maker is a water-in-oil/silicone emulsifier that requires specific conditions to properly create an emulsion. Based on the staff's advice, it needs to be fully dissolved and incorporated into the oil/silicone phase (Cyclomethicone in your formula) using heat before the water phase is introduced.

When you added the water phase while the Warp Cream Maker was still in solid or undissolved form within the Cyclomethicone, it couldn't effectively bind the two phases together. This resulted in the mixture separating and not thickening into the desired serum consistency.

Shaking the bottle will only temporarily mix the ingredients; it won't create a stable emulsion because the emulsifier hasn't been properly processed to do its job.

How to Correct the Mixing Process

To achieve a stable serum texture, you need to follow the correct mixing method for Warp Cream Maker:

Combine Oil/Silicone Phase: Mix the Cyclomethicone and Warp Cream Maker together in a container.
Apply Heat: Gently heat this mixture to 60-70°C while stirring continuously. Keep stirring until the Warp Cream Maker is completely dissolved and the mixture is homogeneous.
Prepare Water Phase: In a separate container, combine the water, Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, N-acetyl-glucosamine, DMAE bitartrate, Double Hyaluron Liquid, Cyanocobalamin, and Phenoxyethanol. Ensure all water-soluble ingredients are fully dissolved.
Emulsification: Once the Cyclomethicone/Warp Cream Maker mixture is homogeneous and still warm (but not above 70°C), slowly add the water phase to it while continuously stirring with a suitable mixer (a high-shear mixer is recommended for best results with this type of emulsifier).
Cooling: Continue stirring the mixture as it cools down. As it cools, the emulsion should form and thicken into a serum texture.

By properly dissolving the Warp Cream Maker in the Cyclomethicone with heat before adding the water phase, you will allow the emulsifier to function correctly and create a stable, uniform serum.