Serum Formulation Issues and Ingredient Incompatibility

ถามโดย: neinghataik เมื่อ: April 16, 2016 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am trying to create a serum with a high concentration of active ingredients and low water content. I encountered issues with my formulations:

  1. Initial Attempt: I used Silky Serum Base with Ceramide Complex. The mixture became liquid and separated.
  2. Second Attempt: I tried using Pro Polymer instead of Silky Serum Base, but still included other ingredients like Ceramide Complex and Eye Preserved. The Pro Polymer did not gel easily with hand mixing and required extensive blending, still leaving small gel particles.

Could you please explain why these issues occurred and suggest solutions or alternative formulations? Specifically, I want to understand the compatibility issues with Silky Serum Base, Pro Polymer, Ceramide Complex, and Eye Preserved (Polyaminopropyl Biguanide), and find suitable preservatives.

คำตอบ

Serum Formulation Issues and Recommendations

You attempted to create a serum with a high concentration of active ingredients and a low water content, using Silky Serum Base.

Problems Encountered

  1. Initial Formula Instability: Your first attempt using Silky Serum Base and Ceramide Complex resulted in a liquid, separated mixture.
    • Reason: The staff identified that Ceramide Complex has self-emulsifying properties which interfered with the emulsification system of the Silky Serum Base, causing instability and separation.
  2. Pro Polymer Mixing Difficulty: When you tried using Pro Polymer instead of Silky Serum Base (while still including other ingredients like Ceramide Complex and Eye Preserved), the Pro Polymer did not gel easily with hand mixing and required extensive blending, still leaving small gel particles.
    • Reason: The staff later confirmed that Eye Preserved (Polyaminopropyl Biguanide) is incompatible with many polymers and thickeners, including Pro Polymer, Hyaluronic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Light Cream Maker, Satin Cream Maker, and CM Glucan. This incompatibility prevented the Pro Polymer from forming a proper gel structure.

Recommended Solutions and Alternatives

  1. If you want to keep Ceramide Complex: You cannot use Silky Serum Base or Pro Polymer with Ceramide Complex due to incompatibility. To include Ceramide Complex and achieve a stable texture, you would need to use a different emulsifying system. The staff suggested using a cream maker like Light Cream Maker along with Silicone Blend and water to create a cream base that can incorporate Ceramide Complex.
  2. If you want a serum/gel-cream texture (without Ceramide Complex and Eye Preserved): You can use Pro Polymer to create a gel-cream texture.
    • Mixing Method for Pro Polymer: Mix Pro Polymer with the water phase until a clear gel forms before adding oil-based ingredients like LipidSoft Lite. Note that Pro Polymer can only emulsify a limited amount of oil (typically not more than 10%). Achieving a smooth gel with Pro Polymer might require sufficient mixing, potentially with a blender if hand mixing is insufficient, but the incompatibility with Eye Preserved was the primary issue in your attempt.
  3. Suitable Preservatives: Since Eye Preserved is incompatible with many ingredients, including common thickeners, you need an alternative preservative. The staff recommended Mild Preserved Eco or Phenoxyethanol SA. Mild Preserved Eco has a strong history of being gentle.

In summary, the key to a successful formulation is ensuring compatibility between all ingredients, especially between the chosen base/thickener and other components like Ceramide Complex and the preservative.

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