Serum Formulation Issues: Separation, Solubility, and Thickening
Question
Regarding a serum formulation, I have the following questions:
1. Do `Wild Yam` and `Bisabolol` dissolve in `Cyclomethicone`?
2. Could you recommend an alternative solvent for the oil phase instead of mineral oil?
3. What are the potential causes for the serum separating into layers?
4. Can `Carbomer` be used as a thickener, or is there a better alternative like `Pro Polymer`?
Answer
Hello, based on your questions and the staff's recommendations, here is a summary of the answers:
Can Wild Yam and Bisabolol dissolve in Cyclomethicone?
According to the staff's advice, Wild Yam and Bisabolol do not dissolve directly in Cyclomethicone, but they can be dispersed within it.Recommend a solvent for the oil phase instead of mineral oil?
The staff did not specifically recommend an alternative solvent. However, they reduced the amount of Cyclomethicone in the revised formula, which might help with the sticky feeling you experienced with mineral oil. The main point is that these ingredients disperse, not dissolve, in the oil phase, and the separation issue is primarily due to other factors.What caused the serum to separate?
The staff explained the main reasons for separation as follows:- High amounts of components in the water phase that are not purely water (such as Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, MOIST24), making it harder for SiliSolve Plus, the emulsifier, to work effectively.
- The original amounts of Cyclomethicone and SiliSolve Plus might not have been suitable for emulsifying all ingredients.
- The type of mixing head used might not be suitable (even though you used a mixer).
Therefore, the staff recommended reducing the amounts of Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cyclomethicone, and SiliSolve Plus in the revised formula to facilitate easier emulsification.
Can Carbomer be used to thicken it?
Carbomer can be used, but the staff recommended using Pro Polymer instead. Pro Polymer should be mixed into the water phase before combining with the oil phase and mixing. If you have a high-speed mixer, you can also add Pro Polymer to the already mixed formula and blend until dissolved. The staff suggested trying the revised formula first, as the texture might be sufficiently thickened already.
I hope this answer helps clarify the issues and solutions.
Related Products Mentioned
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse™, France)
SiliSolve Plus™
MOIST24