Serum Formulation Issues: Stickiness and Xanthan Gum Dissolution

Question

I am trying to formulate an anti-aging serum/gel using Xanthan Gum as a thickener along with several active ingredients. My current attempt resulted in a sticky texture and issues with the Xanthan Gum dissolving properly, leading to foaming.

I am using the following ingredients and percentages (this is based on the staff's suggested formula, reflecting the user's context):

Pitera (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate): 53.5%
Xanthan Gum: 0.5% (previously tried 1% which was too sticky)
Double Hyaluron Liquid: 10%
Argireline: 10%
Matrixyl 3000: 5%
Safe B3 (Niacinamide): 5%
GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine): 4%
RETINAT (Starfish Extract): 1%
Pep Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5): 3%
Butylene Glycol: 5%
WaterSoft (PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer): 2%
Mild Preserved Eco: 1%

Could you please provide guidance on the proper mixing procedure for Xanthan Gum to avoid stickiness and foaming, and confirm if the suggested formula adjustments (like reducing Xanthan Gum to 0.5% and adding WaterSoft) are appropriate for achieving a non-sticky, smooth gel texture with these active ingredients?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello,

Thank you for providing the details of your latest formula attempt and the issues you encountered. It sounds like you're facing challenges with the texture and dissolving the Xanthan Gum, which is causing stickiness and foaming.

Regarding the Xanthan Gum dissolution and stickiness:

Xanthan Gum needs proper hydration to dissolve smoothly and thicken the mixture. Simply shaking can introduce a lot of air (causing foam) and may not fully hydrate the gum, leading to clumps or uneven texture.
Your last formula increased Xanthan Gum to 1%, which can result in a much thicker and potentially stickier gel, especially when combined with Hyaluronic Acid and other ingredients.

Here is a revised formula suggestion for 50ml, aimed at reducing stickiness and improving texture, while keeping your desired active ingredients, including Argireline 10%:

Revised Anti-Aging Serum Formula (50ml):

Pitera (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate) (ID 357): 53.5% (26.75 g) - This will be your base liquid.
Xanthan Gum (ID 216): 0.5% (0.25 g) - Reduced amount to lessen stickiness.
Double Hyaluron Liquid (ID 404): 10% (5 g)
Argireline (ID 45): 10% (5 g)
Matrixyl 3000 (ID 51): 5% (2.5 g)
Safe B3 (Niacinamide) (ID 74): 5% (2.5 g)
GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine) (ID 116): 4% (2 g)
RETINAT (Starfish Extract) (ID 1165): 1% (0.5 g)
Pep Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) (ID 50): 3% (1.5 g)
Butylene Glycol (ID 320): 5% (2.5 g)
WaterSoft (PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer) (ID 1576): 2% (1 g) - Added to improve skin feel and reduce stickiness.
Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001): 1% (0.5 g) - Recommended preservative for sensitive skin.

Total: 100% (50 g)

(Note: Percentages are by weight. You will need a precise scale.)*

Mixing Instructions:

Prepare the Gel Base: Weigh out the Pitera (ID 357) into a clean container. Gradually sprinkle the Xanthan Gum (ID 216) onto the surface of the Pitera while stirring continuously with a small whisk or stirrer. Stir gently but thoroughly until the Xanthan Gum is completely dissolved and a smooth gel forms. Avoid vigorous shaking at this stage to minimize foam. This may take several minutes.
Add Water-Soluble Actives: Once the gel base is smooth, add the Double Hyaluron Liquid (ID 404), Argireline (ID 45), Matrixyl 3000 (ID 51), Safe B3 (ID 74), GlucoBright (ID 116), RETINAT (ID 1165), Pep Coll (ID 50), and Butylene Glycol (ID 320). Stir gently until everything is evenly dispersed.
Add Texture Enhancer: Add the WaterSoft (ID 1576) and stir until fully incorporated.
Add Preservative: Add the Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001) and stir gently to combine.
Final Mix: Stir gently for a few more minutes to ensure all ingredients are fully mixed. Let it sit for a while to allow any remaining small bubbles to dissipate.

Adding Fragrance (Optional):
If you wish to add fragrance, add it in step 4 (before the preservative, or check the fragrance supplier's instructions). Use a maximum of 0.5% fragrance oil. Stir gently. For higher fragrance concentrations or better dispersion, you might need an emulsifier like Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) as previously mentioned by the staff, but this complicates the formula. For simplicity, stick to a low fragrance percentage if desired.

Effectiveness:
This formula contains a good range of active ingredients known for anti-aging benefits (peptides like Argireline, Matrixyl 3000, Pep Coll; Niacinamide, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Starfish Extract) combined with hydrators (Hyaluron, Butylene Glycol, Pitera). The concentrations seem reasonable, but always check the recommended usage rates for each specific ingredient from the supplier to ensure optimal performance and safety.

Storage:
Store the finished serum in a clean, airtight bottle, preferably in a cool, dark place (like a refrigerator) to maintain its stability and extend its shelf life. The Mild Preserved Eco helps prevent microbial growth.

This revised formula should help address the stickiness issue by reducing the main thickener (Xanthan Gum) and adding an ingredient specifically for improving skin feel (WaterSoft). The proper mixing method for Xanthan Gum is also crucial.

Let me know if you have any more questions!