Serum Formulation Issues with Electrolytes: Thickening and Texture
Question
I am developing a serum formulation targeting wrinkle reduction, skin firming, and whitening. I aim for a fast-absorbing, non-sticky texture suitable for all skin types. My current formula includes:
- Water
- Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™)
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3)
- Wrinkle-Fill™ (L-Tyrosine)
- Light Cream Maker
I am encountering issues achieving the desired texture or stability with Light Cream Maker, possibly related to the Azelaic Acid and DMAE Liquid.
Could you please advise on how to properly formulate this serum to obtain a stable, non-sticky gel texture, especially considering the presence of Azelaic Acid and DMAE Liquid in the formula?
Answer
Serum Formulation Feedback
Based on your proposed serum formula for reducing wrinkles, firming, and whitening, and the feedback you received, here's an analysis and recommendation.
Your goal is a fast-absorbing, non-sticky serum for all skin types with effective ingredients. Your initial formula includes Water, Azelaic Acid, DMAE Liquid, Vitamin B3, L-Tyrosine, and Light Cream Maker.
The feedback you received correctly highlights a crucial point regarding the thickener/emulsifier choice.
Light Cream Maker is designed for cream textures, typically needing an oil phase. While it can thicken water-based formulas, it may not give the desired texture without oil. More importantly, your formula contains Azelaic Acid and DMAE Liquid, which are electrolytes. Light Cream Maker has limited tolerance for high electrolyte concentrations, which can thin the formula. It is noted that it "cannot be used in high electrolyte formulations."
Pro Polymer, conversely, is a gel-forming substance with good electrolyte resistance. Its description confirms it can be used with electrolytes like DMAE and Azelaic Acid. Electrolytes can soften the gel, requiring a higher concentration of Pro Polymer (e.g., 2-3% instead of the usual 0.8%) for the desired thickness.
Therefore, using Pro Polymer instead of Light Cream Maker is more suitable for your formula, as it better handles the electrolytes from Azelaic Acid and DMAE, helping you achieve a stable, non-sticky gel serum texture.
The active ingredients you've selected are effective:
- Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): Brightens skin, reduces dark spots, controls oiliness, helps with acne.
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: Reduces wrinkles, firms skin, fights free radicals, enhances other antioxidants, pairs well with Vitamin B3. Note potential irritation, especially above 5% concentration.
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Reduces wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, improves skin barrier, reduces oiliness, anti-inflammatory. Pairs well with DMAE.
- Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine): Works synergistically with DMAE to reduce wrinkles, improve firmness and collagen.
Recommended Formulation Approach
Following the advice to use Pro Polymer and the suggested mixing method is the most suitable way:
- Combine Water, Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3), Wrinkle-Fill™ (L-Tyrosine), and Pro Polymer™. Stir until dissolved and a gel forms.
- Slowly add Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) and DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid to the gel, stirring continuously.
- Observe the texture. If it thins due to electrolytes, gradually add a little more Pro Polymer™ while stirring until the desired gel consistency is reached. You might need Pro Polymer™ at a concentration higher than 1.5% depending on the final electrolyte concentration.
This method addresses the electrolyte compatibility issue and should help you create a stable, effective serum with the desired texture.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Light Cream Maker™
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)