Serum formulation issues: Xanthan Gum clumping and poor absorption

Hello!

Thank you for sharing your serum formula and your goals. The ingredients you've chosen are excellent for targeting anti-aging, reducing wrinkles, providing hydration, and improving overall skin health, making it suitable for various generations. Ingredients like Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Snail Secretion, DMAE, Niacinamide, and Panthenol are well-regarded for these benefits.

Regarding the issues you encountered:

1. Xanthan Gum Clumping: This is a common issue when hydrating gums like Xanthan Gum. As the staff mentioned, the key is proper dispersion. You can try adding the Xanthan Gum very slowly to the water phase while mixing vigorously (preferably with a high-shear mixer if available, or a strong whisk/stirrer). Alternatively, you can disperse the Xanthan Gum in a small amount of glycerin or another non-aqueous liquid first before adding it to the water phase, which helps prevent clumping. The staff's suggestion of hydrating the Xanthan Gum in water first to form a gel before adding other ingredients is also a very effective method, especially when mixing manually.

2. Poor Absorption/Sticky Feel: Xanthan Gum at 1% can create a relatively thick gel texture, which might feel sticky or take longer to absorb, especially when combined with other ingredients that can contribute to viscosity or feel (like Snail Secretion or DMAE). To improve absorption and reduce stickiness, you can consider the staff's suggestions:

   • Adjust the gelling agent: You could try reducing the percentage of Xanthan Gum slightly (e.g., to 0.5% or 0.7%) to see if that improves the texture and absorption while still providing enough viscosity. Or, explore alternative gelling agents known for a lighter, less sticky feel.
   • Adjust ingredient percentages: As suggested, reducing the percentage of ingredients that might contribute to stickiness, such as DMAE, could help. However, consider if reducing the percentage impacts the desired efficacy.
   • Add a penetration enhancer: Incorporating a small amount of a penetration enhancer can help the serum absorb more quickly and deeply into the skin.
   • Combine approaches: Often, a combination of slightly reducing the thickener and potentially adjusting another ingredient or adding a penetration enhancer works best.

Overall, your formula has a strong base for achieving your goals. Fine-tuning the texture and absorption often requires small adjustments and testing. Experiment with the methods suggested for handling the Xanthan Gum and improving the skin feel.

Hope this helps!