Serum Formulation: Phospholipid, Viscosity, Odor, and Mixing Service

Question

I am planning to make a serum and have the following questions:

Regarding the penetration enhancer, Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin): Based on what I've read, does the formula need to contain both water and oil?
If I have MySkinRecipes mix the ingredients for me, do I need to add Disodium EDTA? (The water that the system adds to complete 100% is water that does not require adding Disodium EDTA into the formula, correct?)
Is the following formula feasible? I would like a slightly viscous texture that doesn't flow like water (it's acceptable if it takes some time to absorb, but not too long).

Ingredients:
- Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq. Matrixyl 3000) 3%
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq. Argireline) 10%
- Energy-Blend™ (Caffeine+Adenosine+Vitamin B3) 5%
- Calcium Pantothenate 3%
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 3%
- Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) 2%
- Phospholipid 2%
- Argan Oil (Organic - Virgin - Deodorized) 5%
- Distilled Water (Sterile) 67%
Does this initial formula have any odor?
What kind of packaging will MySkinRecipes use for this formula if they mix it for me? Are there example pictures available?
After payment, how long does it take to receive the order? (This is for a test batch).

Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Serum Formulation Questions

Regarding your questions about creating a serum with the listed ingredients:

1. Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) and the need for water and oil

Based on the information for Hydrogenated Lecithin, it can be dispersed in oil and dissolved in water. This property allows it to function in formulations containing both water and oil phases, potentially acting as an emulsifier or helping to incorporate ingredients into the formula. Therefore, your understanding that the formula would involve both water and oil phases when using Phospholipid is generally correct.

3. Feasibility and Viscosity of the Formula

The formula you've proposed contains a mix of water-soluble ingredients (peptides, Energy-Blend™, Calcium Pantothenate, DMAE, Mild Preserved Eco™, and water) and an oil phase ingredient (Argan Oil), along with Phospholipid which can interact with both.

While Phospholipid can help to combine the oil and water phases, at the concentration of 2% and with 5% Argan Oil, it may not be sufficient on its own to create a stable emulsion with noticeable viscosity. The formula as listed, without a dedicated thickening agent (like a gum or polymer), is likely to be quite low in viscosity, similar to water.

To achieve a "slight viscosity" and prevent the serum from being too watery, you would likely need to include a suitable thickener in your formulation. This would help to create a more viscous texture and improve the stability of the mixture, allowing for a more controlled absorption rate.

4. Odor of the Formula

Based on the descriptions of the ingredients, the DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid is noted to have a "characteristic odor" despite undergoing a deodorization process. While the Deodorized Argan Oil and Mild Preserved Eco™ are described as having no significant odor, the DMAE is the most likely ingredient to contribute a noticeable smell to your final serum.

Regarding your questions about myskinrecipes' mixing service, whether Disodium EDTA is needed when they mix, the type of packaging for test batches, and the lead time (questions 2, 5, and 6), I do not have access to information about myskinrecipes' specific services, processes, or logistics. You would need to contact myskinrecipes directly for these details.