Formula Assessment and Recommendations

Here is an assessment of your proposed serum formula and answers to your questions:

• Can this formula be mixed into a gel serum that can be used with a vacuum pump bottle?
  Yes, this formula can be mixed into a gel serum suitable for a vacuum pump bottle. The inclusion of Pro Polymer™ at 0.4% will create a gel texture. This concentration is on the lower end of the recommended range for Pro Polymer™, which should result in a lighter gel consistency that is typically well-suited for dispensing from a vacuum pump bottle.

• Is the pH of this formula expected to be below 6?
  Based on the ingredients, the pH of this formula is expected to be above 6, likely significantly higher, due to the presence of alkaline amino acids like L-Arginine (1%) and L-Lysine (1%). Many of your active ingredients, such as Epidermal Growth Factor, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Adenosine Liposome, Glutathione, Japanese Cedar, and Ume Extract, require a pH between approximately 3.0 and 6.5 for optimal stability and efficacy. The high pH caused by the alkaline ingredients will negatively impact the performance and stability of these sensitive actives. Therefore, pH adjustment using an acidic ingredient will be necessary to bring the formula into a suitable range (ideally between 3.5 and 6.0) after all ingredients are mixed.

• Can Rose Water be used as the serum base in this formula?
  Yes, Rose Water can be used as the base for this serum formula. It constitutes a significant portion (47.4%) of the liquid phase and is commonly used in cosmetic formulations like toners and moisturizers.

• Can this formula be mixed without heat or with low heat?
  Yes, this formula must be mixed using a cold process or with very low heat (below 40°C). Many of the active ingredients, including Epidermal Growth Factor, DMAE, Adenosine Liposome, Glutathione, Japanese Cedar, Superoxide Dismutase Liposome, Ume Extract, Laurocapram, Phenoxyethanol SA, and Wrinkle-Lax, are sensitive to heat and can degrade if exposed to high temperatures. Heat-sensitive ingredients should be added in the final phase after the main base has been formed and cooled.

• Rose Water already contains Phenoxyethanol preservative. Is it necessary to add more? Can it be changed to Mild Preserved Eco™?
  Rose Water contains 0.5% Phenoxyethanol. Your formula also includes 0.5% Phenoxyethanol SA, which is a broad-spectrum preservative blend containing Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, and Sorbic Acid. Since Rose Water is less than 60% of the total formula, additional preservation is necessary for the other ingredients. The combination of the preservative in Rose Water and the added Phenoxyethanol SA should provide sufficient broad-spectrum preservation for this formula, but a challenge test is always recommended to confirm efficacy.

  Replacing Phenoxyethanol SA with 0.5% Mild Preserved Eco™ is not recommended as a direct substitute for preservation efficacy. Mild Preserved Eco™ is primarily a booster and mild antimicrobial agent, not a broad-spectrum preservative blend like Phenoxyethanol SA. Using only 0.5% Mild Preserved Eco™ in place of Phenoxyethanol SA would likely result in insufficient preservation for a complex water-based formula like this. If you wish to use Mild Preserved Eco™, a higher concentration (1-2%) might be needed, potentially in combination with the Phenoxyethanol from the Rose Water, but this would require thorough testing.

Additional Recommendations:

• pH Adjustment: As mentioned, pH adjustment is critical. After mixing all ingredients, measure the pH and slowly add an acidic solution (like Citric Acid or Lactic Acid solution) while stirring until the desired pH range (3.5-6.0) is reached. Monitor the pH carefully as you adjust.
• Mixing Procedure: A suggested mixing order is to combine the water phase ingredients first (Rose Water, Disodium EDTA, Glycerin, Trehalose, water-soluble amino acids like Glycine, Proline, Leucine, Lysine, and Arginine), then hydrate the Pro Polymer™ according to its instructions. Once the gel base is formed and cooled (if any initial warming was used), add the heat-sensitive active ingredients (Epidermal Growth Factor, DMAE, Adenosine Liposome, Glutathione, Japanese Cedar, Superoxide Dismutase Liposome, Ume Extract, Wrinkle-Lax, Laurocapram, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin B3, Vitamin B5, ActiveProtec™ UV, ActiveProtec™ OX) one by one, ensuring each is fully dispersed or dissolved before adding the next. After all actives are added, adjust the pH. Finally, add the Phenoxyethanol SA and mix thoroughly.
• Ingredient Solubility: Ensure all powder ingredients are fully dissolved in the water phase before adding the gel maker or other ingredients. Some amino acids have solubility limits.
• Challenge Test: Always perform a microbial challenge test on the final formula to ensure the preservation system is effective.