Serum Formulation Review and Adding Pitera

Asked by: suvimon_oa On: April 21, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have formulated a serum using Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate), N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine (GlucoBright™), Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™ Niacinamide), Double Hyaluron Liquid, Pro Polymer™, Phenoxyethanol SA, and Water. I would like to know if I can add Pitera (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate) to this formula by reducing the amount of water.

Answer

Review of Your First Formulation Attempt

Hello! It's great that you're starting to create your own skincare formulas. This formula aims to address brightening and early signs of wrinkles for combination skin, which is a good approach.

Let's review the ingredients you've chosen:

  • Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate): This ingredient is known for supporting skin barrier repair and has potential anti-aging benefits, which aligns with your goal of reducing wrinkles.
  • N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine (GlucoBright™): An excellent choice for brightening and reducing dark spots. It works synergistically with Niacinamide for enhanced results. It also helps stimulate the skin's natural Hyaluronic Acid production for moisture.
  • Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™ Niacinamide): A fantastic multi-tasker. It helps with brightening, improving skin barrier function, reducing redness, controlling oil (beneficial for combination skin), and can improve the appearance of fine lines by stimulating collagen and ceramide production. Using the Safe-B3™ type allows for higher concentrations like 4% with less risk of flushing.
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid: Provides hydration at different skin depths due to its blend of standard and nano-sized hyaluronic acid. Hydration is key for plump skin and reducing the appearance of dehydration lines.
  • Pro Polymer™: This is your gel maker, providing the desired texture for your serum.
  • Phenoxyethanol SA: A broad-spectrum preservative essential for preventing microbial growth and keeping your product safe.
  • Water: The base of your water-based serum.

The combination of N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine and Vitamin B3 is particularly effective for brightening and improving skin tone. The inclusion of Repair Activator and Double Hyaluron Liquid supports overall skin health and hydration, contributing to the anti-aging aspect. The percentages you've chosen seem appropriate for a serum targeting these concerns.

Mixing Procedure

Regarding mixing all ingredients at once, this is generally not recommended for cosmetic formulations. Each ingredient, especially thickeners and preservatives, often requires specific mixing methods and conditions (like temperature or order of addition) to ensure they disperse correctly, function effectively, and create a stable product.

  • For example, Pro Polymer™ needs to be properly dispersed in water and allowed time to hydrate to form a smooth gel. Over-blending should be avoided.
  • Phenoxyethanol SA should typically be added in the final step after the mixture has cooled below 60°C.

Always refer to the mixing instructions provided for each raw material to ensure your formulation is stable, effective, and safe.

Adding Pitera (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate)

Yes, you can add Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (also known as Pitera) to your formula by reducing the percentage of water. Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is known for its potential to improve skin tone, texture, and hydration, which aligns with your goals.

As the staff mentioned, your current formula already contains several powerful active ingredients. It's a good idea to test the current version first to see the results before adding another ingredient. This helps you understand the effects of the initial formula and decide if further modification is needed. If you do add it, ensure you follow its specific mixing instructions (often added in the final phase below 40°C).

Overall, your ingredient selection is promising for your skin concerns. Focus on following proper mixing procedures for each component to achieve the best results.