Serum Formulation Review and Adjustment for Combination/Oily, Sensitive Skin
Question
I am developing a serum for my combination/oily, dehydrated, acne-prone, and sensitive skin. My goal is a fast-absorbing, non-sticky texture suitable for both day and night use, focusing on strengthening the skin barrier, promoting cell turnover, and balancing pH.
My current formulation includes:
- Natural Urea 3%
- Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™) 3%
- Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid) 5%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5%
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™ 2%
- Aloe Vera Extract (อัตราสกัด 10:1 FullAssay™) 3%
- Natto Gum 5%
- Hydrolyzed Milk (Casein) Protein
- Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein)
- Sodium PCA
- Sodium Lactate
- Cholesterol
- Base/Thickener
- Preservative
- Water (to 100%)
I find the texture too sticky and difficult to mix. Could you please review my formula and suggest adjustments? Specifically, what is the recommended ratio for Urea, Sodium PCA, and Sodium Lactate in this type of serum?
Answer
Serum Formulation Review and Suggestions
Thank you for sharing your serum formulation and detailed skin concerns. It's great that you are creating a custom product to address your specific needs, including strengthening the skin barrier, promoting cell turnover, and balancing pH, while aiming for a fast-absorbing, non-sticky texture suitable for day and night use on your combination/oily, dehydrated, acne-prone, and sensitive skin.
Based on your formulation goals and skin type, our team has reviewed your proposed formula and provided some suggestions to optimize it for ease of mixing and suitability, particularly to ensure a non-greasy feel.
Here is the revised formula based on the recommendations:
- Natural Urea: 3%
- Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™): 3%
- Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid): 5%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5%
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™: 2%
- Aloe Vera Extract (อัตราสกัด 10:1 FullAssay™): 3%
- Natto Gum: 2-3% (Adjusted from 5% to reduce potential stickiness)
- Light Cream Maker™: 1.5% (As emulsifier/thickener)
- Mild Preserved Eco: 1% (As preservative)
- Water: Remaining percentage to 100%
Rationale for Adjustments:
Several ingredients were suggested for removal or reduction to better suit your combination/oily skin and simplify the formulation process:
- Hydrolyzed Milk (Casein) Protein and Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein) were removed as they can contribute to a sticky feeling, which you want to avoid.
- Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate were removed because they are electrolytes and can make the formula challenging to mix, especially for those new to formulating.
- Cholesterol was removed as it requires high heat for dissolution, adding complexity to the process.
- Natto Gum was reduced to 2-3% from 5% to further ensure the serum remains non-sticky.
Benefits of the Ingredients:
The ingredients included in the revised formula offer several benefits for your skin type:
- Urea, Ceramide Complex, Panthenol, and Aloe Vera Extract help to strengthen the skin barrier and provide hydration, addressing the feeling of dehydration under the skin.
- Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid) aids in gentle exfoliation and cell turnover, which can help with clogged pores and acne.
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) is excellent for improving the appearance of enlarged pores, reducing redness and inflammation, and supporting the skin barrier.
- Natto Gum provides moisturizing benefits.
Regarding your question about the ratio of Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, and Urea, the revised formula simplifies this by focusing on Urea at 3% and removing Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate for easier formulation.
This revised formula provides a good balance of active ingredients targeting your concerns while aiming for a light, non-sticky texture that is easier to prepare.
Related Products Mentioned
Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™, Cream)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Light Cream Maker™
Urea (High Purity, Cosmetics, Powder)
Natto Gum Extract
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™