Serum Formulation Review

Your formula includes a comprehensive blend of active ingredients targeting multiple skin concerns, such as wrinkles, hydration, brightening, and oil control. Here's a look at the ingredients and suggested adjustments:

Ingredients and Concentrations

• Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate) 10%: This is within the recommended usage range (5-100%). It's known for its potential to help with skin DNA repair.
• Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR) 5%: This concentration is at the higher end of the recommended range (3-5%). It's excellent for stimulating collagen and improving skin elasticity.
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5%: This is the commonly recommended usage rate (1-10%, recommended 5%). Niacinamide offers multiple benefits, including reducing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, oiliness, and strengthening the skin barrier.
• Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline) 10%: This is at the maximum recommended usage rate (3-10%). It works by relaxing muscle contractions that cause expression lines. It pairs well with Matrixyl 3000.
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) 5%: This is within the recommended range (1-8%). It works synergistically with Niacinamide for brightening and also helps boost hyaluronic acid production. The product description suggests 4% GlucoBright with 2-4% Niacinamide for optimal synergy, but 5% of each is also acceptable within their individual limits.
• Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%) 1%: This is within the recommended range (1-2%). Glabridin provides whitening and anti-irritation benefits.
• Zinc PCA 1%: This is at the maximum recommended rate (0.2-1.0%), typically used for oily or acne-prone skin. If your primary focus is anti-aging and moisturizing without significant oiliness or acne concerns, a lower concentration (e.g., 0.2-0.5%) might be sufficient for its collagen-stimulating benefits while potentially reducing formulation complexity regarding pH.
• 20nm Silver Pure™ (Nano Silver) 1%: The recommended usage rate for Nano Silver 20nm Powder is significantly lower, typically 0.01-0.1%. Using 1% is much higher than recommended and may lead to stability issues (as it's an insoluble powder) and potential safety concerns. It's primarily an antimicrobial agent. Given the inclusion of Mild Preserved Eco, the need for such a high concentration of Nano Silver for preservation is questionable. It is strongly recommended to reduce the concentration of Nano Silver to 0.1% or less, or consider omitting it if adequate preservation is achieved with Mild Preserved Eco.
• Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) 0.5%: This is within the recommended range (0.5-1%). SOD is a powerful antioxidant enzyme.
• Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine) 1%: This is within the recommended range (1-2%). It complements peptides in reducing wrinkles and improving skin firmness. Note that Acetyl-Tyrosine is acidic, which will impact the final pH.
• Wrinkle-Lax™ 0.3%: This is at the lower end of the recommended range (0.3-0.5%). It helps relax muscle-induced wrinkles.
• Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3%: This is the recommended rate for its function as a penetration enhancer (1-10%, recommended 3% for transporting). It will help the other active ingredients absorb better into the skin.
• Mild Preserved Eco™ 1%: This is within the recommended range for general cosmetics (0.5-2.0%, general use 1.0-1.5%). It provides preservation for the formula.

Formulation Considerations

• pH Balance: With several ingredients having specific pH requirements (Niacinamide 4-7, Zinc PCA 4-6, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 3.5-6.5, GlucoBright 3-7, Wrinkle-Fill acidic), careful pH adjustment of the final formula is crucial. Aiming for a pH between 4.0 and 6.0 would likely accommodate most of these ingredients effectively.
• Mixing Procedure: Pay close attention to the mixing instructions for each ingredient. Many active ingredients (Peptides, Repair Activator, Licorice Extract, Wrinkle-Lax, SOD) should be added in the cooling phase below 40°C (or 60°C for Wrinkle-Lax) to maintain their stability and efficacy. SOD is best incorporated in an anhydrous base or with a polymeric thickener in a water base.
• Solubility: Ensure your base formulation can properly incorporate both water-soluble ingredients and the oil-soluble Isododecane. An emulsion system is likely necessary.
• Storage: Due to the nature of several active ingredients (Repair Activator, Peptides, Licorice Extract, SOD, Wrinkle-Fill), storing the final product in a refrigerator is recommended for optimal long-term stability.

Summary of Recommendations

1. Reduce Nano Silver: The most critical adjustment is to significantly reduce the concentration of Nano Silver from 1% to the recommended maximum of 0.1% or less, or remove it entirely if the preservative system is sufficient.
2. Consider Zinc PCA Concentration: If the serum is not specifically for oily/acne-prone skin, you might consider reducing the Zinc PCA concentration to 0.2-0.5%.
3. Ensure Compatibility: Carefully formulate the base to handle both water-soluble and oil-soluble components like Isododecane.
4. Control pH: Precisely adjust the final pH to be within the optimal range for the active ingredients, ideally between 4.0 and 6.0.
5. Follow Mixing Instructions: Adhere to the specific temperature and mixing phase requirements for each ingredient.
6. Recommend Refrigeration: Advise users to store the final product in the refrigerator for best results and shelf life.

Overall, your formula is rich in beneficial ingredients. By addressing the Nano Silver concentration and carefully managing pH and mixing, you can create a potent anti-aging and moisturizing serum.