Serum Formulation Review for 50+ Dry Skin: Texture Adjustment

Asked by: thesunlaboratory On: September 06, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Please review a serum formulation intended for dry skin aged 50+, aiming for a serum consistency that is adequately thick, not too liquid. The formula is as follows:

Oil phases:
1.0 Activated Resorcinol
0.3 WhiteCumin
5.0 Safflower Seed Oil
3.0 Ethoxydiglycol

Water phases:
10.0 DMAE Liquid
3.0 Wakeme extract
1.0 Pure Adinosine
5.0 Willow Bark Extract
1.5 Cosmo White
2.0 Hydro White
1.0 Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
1.0 Ectoine
5.0 MOIST24
0.1 Protec UV
0.2 Disodium EDTA
0.01 Cosmoperine
2.0 Cyclopentasilicone
1.5 Satin Cream Maker

55.89 น้ำกลั่น

Previously, I tried adding Safflower Seed Oil up to 10% and Satin Cream Maker up to 2.3%, but the serum texture remained liquid. This time, I tried adding 5% MOIST24 (which I didn't include before). Will adding MOIST24 help thicken the serum texture?

Answer

Subject: Review of Serum Formulation for 50+ Dry Skin

Thank you for sharing your serum formulation for dry skin aged 50+. It contains several interesting ingredients targeting concerns common in mature skin.

Looking at the ingredients:

  • Actives: You have included potent actives like Activated Resorcinol, WhiteCumin, DMAE Liquid, Pure Adenosine, Hydro White, and Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, which can help address issues like dark spots, uneven tone, firmness, and wrinkles.
  • Hydration & Emollience: Ingredients like Safflower Seed Oil, Ectoine, MOIST24 (Glycereth-26), and Cosmo White contribute to hydration and skin barrier support, which is crucial for dry skin.
  • Other: Willow Bark Extract provides gentle exfoliation, Ethoxydiglycol and Cosmoperine enhance penetration, and Satin Cream Maker is your emulsifier.

Regarding your question about viscosity and adding MOIST24:
MOIST24 (Glycereth-26) is primarily a humectant and emollient. While it adds hydration and can contribute to the feel of the serum, it is not a thickener or gelling agent. Adding 5% MOIST24 is unlikely to significantly increase the viscosity of your serum to a thick consistency if the base emulsion system is too liquid.

The viscosity of an emulsion like this is mainly controlled by the emulsifier system (Satin Cream Maker) and the overall ratio of oil and water phases, as well as the potential inclusion of dedicated rheology modifiers or thickeners.

If you want to achieve a thicker serum consistency, you would typically need to:

  1. Adjust the Emulsifier: Ensure the Satin Cream Maker is used at the recommended concentration and properly incorporated to form a stable emulsion. Sometimes, combining emulsifiers or adjusting the ratio of oil to water phase can impact viscosity.
  2. Add a Thickener/Gelling Agent: Incorporate a suitable thickener into the water phase (e.g., a polymer like Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, or a cellulose derivative) or an ingredient that helps build viscosity in the overall system. The choice of thickener depends on compatibility with your ingredients and desired texture.

Adding MOIST24 will certainly boost the moisturizing properties, which is great for dry skin, but it won't solve the liquidity issue.

Overall, the formulation has a good blend of actives and hydrators for mature, dry skin. To achieve the desired texture, focus on adjusting the emulsification system or adding a dedicated thickener.

Let me know if you'd like to explore options for thickening the serum!