Serum Formulation Review for Clogged Pores

Thank you for sharing your serum formulation using Willow Bark Extract for clogged pores. This formula includes several beneficial ingredients for acne-prone skin. Here is a review of the ingredients and suggestions for improvement:

Ingredient Review and Suggestions

• Distilled Water: Standard base.
• Panthenol (Vit5): 3g is a good concentration for hydration and soothing.
• Niacinamide (Vit 3, Safe-B3™): 5g is an effective concentration for reducing oiliness, inflammation, and supporting the skin barrier. Safe-B3™ can be used up to 10%.
• Zinc PCA: Your formula uses 7g. The recommended usage rate for Zinc PCA is typically 0.2-1.0% for oily skin and acne. 7g is significantly higher than recommended and may lead to solubility issues or skin irritation. It is strongly recommended to reduce the concentration to 1g (1%).
• Willow Bark Extract: 7g is within the effective range (1-10%) for exfoliation and helping with clogged pores, providing benefits similar to salicylic acid.
• Mild Preserve Eco™: Your formula uses 0.5g. The recommended usage rate for Mild Preserve Eco™ for general preservation is 1.0-1.5%. 0.5g may not provide sufficient preservation, especially in a water-based formula with botanical extracts. Consider increasing this to 1.0-1.5g.
• Pep®-Acne: Your formula uses 3g. The recommended usage rate for optimal anti-microbial effect is 5%. Consider increasing this to 5g if reducing Zinc PCA frees up space.
• 1,2-Hexanediol: 3g is a good addition, acting as a preservative booster and humectant.
• Allantoin: 0.5g is the maximum solubility in water at room temperature and is effective for soothing and promoting skin healing.
• Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract): 3g is within the recommended range (1-5%) for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, and helping to reduce oiliness. Remember to add it below 40°C and protect the final product from light. Consider using ActiveProtec™ OX if metal ions are a concern.
• Glycerin: 13g is quite a high amount and may make the serum feel sticky. Consider reducing this to 5-10g for a more pleasant texture, as other ingredients like Panthenol and 1,2-Hexanediol also provide hydration.
• Disodium EDTA: 0.2g is the recommended amount for chelating metal ions and improving formula stability.
• Witch Hazel (Distillate): 10g provides some pore tightening benefits.
• Gel Maker (Pro Polymer™): 0.8g is a standard amount for creating a gel texture. Ensure proper mixing as per the product instructions.

Important Considerations

• Total Weight: Your current formula adds up to 106g. Typically, formulations are adjusted to a total of 100g. You would need to reduce the amount of water (or other base ingredients) to reach 100g if that is your desired batch size.
• pH Adjustment: The final pH of the serum is crucial for ingredient stability and skin compatibility. Aim for a pH between 4.5-5.5, which is suitable for most of your active ingredients and beneficial for the skin barrier. You may need to use a pH adjuster.
• Ingredient Compatibility: The combination of ingredients is generally good for acne-prone skin. Ensure you follow the mixing instructions for each ingredient, especially those sensitive to heat or pH.
• Preservation Efficacy: Given the botanical extracts and water base, it is highly recommended to perform a challenge test on your final formula to ensure the preservation system (Mild Preserve Eco™ and 1,2-Hexanediol) is effective against microbial growth.

Suggested Adjustments (Example for a 100g batch)

Based on the review, here is an example of how you could adjust the formula for a 100g batch:

• Distilled Water: ~49.5g (Adjust to make total 100g)
• Panthenol: 3g
• Niacinamide (Safe-B3™): 5g
• Zinc PCA: 1g
• Willow Bark Extract: 7g
• Mild Preserve Eco™: 1.5g
• Pep®-Acne: 5g
• 1,2-Hexanediol: 3g
• Allantoin: 0.5g
• Hi-EGCG™: 3g
• Glycerin: 10g
• Disodium EDTA: 0.2g
• Witch Hazel: 10g
• Gel Maker (Pro Polymer™): 0.8g

This adjusted formula reduces the problematic Zinc PCA concentration, increases the preservative and Pep®-Acne for better efficacy, and slightly reduces glycerin for potentially better texture, while keeping other beneficial ingredients at effective levels.