Serum Formulation Review for Combination, Acne-Prone, Sensitive Skin

Asked by: nicha.pn21 On: April 22, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have created a serum formulation with the following ingredients and percentages:

  • Bifida Ferment Lysate 10%
  • Bakuchiol 1%
  • Niacinamide 5%
  • Glycerin 5%
  • Phytic Acid 0.1%
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide 3%
  • Japanese Cedar 1%
  • Carnitine 3%
  • Vitamin E 0.5%
  • Natural Bisabolol 1%
  • Phospholipid 2%
  • Allantoin 0.5%
  • Xanthan Gum 1%
  • Odor-Kill 1%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • Distilled Water 64.9 %

My expected results are anti-aging, non-comedogenic, no alcohol, and suitability for sensitive skin. I want it to be in a serum, gel, or cream format, but preferably not sticky and easy to spread.

My skin type is combination, acne-prone, with some fine lines.

Can this formula be mixed? If so, will the texture be too thick or sticky?

Please advise. Thank you.

Answer

Subject: Re: Serum Formulation Consultation

Hello,

Thank you for consulting us regarding your serum formulation.

Based on the list of ingredients and percentages you provided:

  • Bifida Ferment Lysate 10%
  • Bakuchiol 1%
  • Niacinamide 5%
  • Glycerin 5%
  • Phytic Acid 0.1%
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide 3%
  • Japanese Cedar 1%
  • Carnitine 3%
  • Vitamin E 0.5%
  • Natural Bisabolol 1%
  • Phospholipid 2%
  • Allantoin 0.5%
  • Xanthan Gum 1%
  • Odor-Kill 1%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • Distilled Water 64.9 %

The total percentage is 100%, and the ingredients are generally compatible for mixing. So, yes, you can mix this formula.

Regarding the texture, with 1% Xanthan Gum, along with 10% Bifida Ferment Lysate, 5% Glycerin, and 2% Phospholipid, the resulting texture will likely be a gel or a relatively thick serum. While Dimethyl Isosorbide can help with spreadability and reduce tackiness, the high concentration of Xanthan Gum and humectants might make the texture feel more viscous or slightly sticky compared to a very light, watery serum. It might not be as easily spreadable or non-sticky as you ideally want for a combination, acne-prone skin type, especially in humid conditions.

However, the combination of active ingredients is excellent for your stated goals (anti-aging, non-comedogenic, suitable for sensitive skin, targeting fine lines and acne). Bakuchiol and Niacinamide are great for anti-aging and acne-prone skin. Bifida Ferment Lysate supports the skin barrier. Ingredients like Bisabolol, Allantoin, and Niacinamide provide soothing benefits, which is good for sensitive skin. The formula does not contain alcohol.

In summary:

  • The formula is mixable and contains beneficial ingredients for your skin concerns.
  • The texture will likely be a gel or thick serum, potentially feeling a bit heavy or slightly sticky due to the thickener and humectants.
  • It aligns well with your desired effects (anti-aging, soothing, anti-acne) and avoids alcohol.
  • We recommend doing a patch test before applying it to your face, especially since your skin is sensitive-prone.

If you find the texture too thick or sticky, you could consider slightly reducing the Xanthan Gum percentage (e.g., to 0.5% or less) in a future batch, but this might affect stability or require adjustments to other ingredients depending on the desired final viscosity.

Hope this helps!