Serum Formulation Assessment

Your serum formulation contains a variety of active ingredients aimed at multiple skin benefits. When preparing this for factory production, several factors regarding ingredient compatibility, mixing procedures, and overall stability need to be considered.

1. Potential Issues in Mixing the Formula

Your formula contains a mix of water-soluble and oil-soluble/dispersible ingredients. Combining these requires careful mixing to ensure homogeneity and stability, especially with the goal of low viscosity. The presence of potential electrolytes from various extracts and active ingredients can also impact the effectiveness of the Light Cream Maker and overall stability.

2. Heating Cerasoft, Wild Yam, and Phytosphingosine

Based on the properties of these ingredients:

• Cerasoft can be mixed in the oil phase and withstands heat up to 80°C for up to 15 minutes.
• Wild Yam Extract should be mixed in oil, can withstand heat up to 60°C for no more than 10 minutes.
• Phytosphingosine should be mixed in oil and can withstand heat up to 80°C for up to 15 minutes. It needs to be dissolved in an organic solvent (like oil or glycol) before combining.

Yes, you can heat Cerasoft to 60°C and add Wild Yam Extract and Phytosphingosine to dissolve/disperse them. However, you must limit the heating temperature to 60°C and the heating time to no more than 10 minutes to protect the Wild Yam Extract. Ensure the Phytosphingosine powder is fully dissolved or well-dispersed.

3. Dispersing TECA

TECA is a powder not soluble in water or oil. It can be dispersed by blending in the final step without heat. While possible, achieving a stable dispersion of a powder like TECA at 0.5% in a low-viscosity serum can be challenging and may lead to sedimentation. For better incorporation, dissolving it in a small amount of Ethoxydiglycol with gentle heat might be considered, but the product description advises "Do not heat" when mixing into the cream base. The safest method based on the description is cold dispersion in the final step, but be aware of the sedimentation risk.

4. Using Light Cream Maker at 0.5%

Using Light Cream Maker at 0.5% is at the minimum recommended level (0.5-3%, recommended 1-1.5%). While this helps achieve low viscosity, it is likely insufficient to provide robust emulsification and thickening for a complex serum with various active ingredients and potential electrolytes. This low concentration increases the risk of formula separation or instability.

5. Viscosity from Phospholipid and Light Cream Maker for Stability

Phospholipid (1%) primarily functions for encapsulation or skin benefits and does not significantly contribute to overall viscosity or emulsification power. Light Cream Maker at 0.5% provides minimal viscosity. The combined effect (1.5%) is likely not sufficient to create enough viscosity or structure to prevent sedimentation of any dispersed solid ingredients or to maintain the stability of the emulsion over time in a low-viscosity formula.

Recommendations for Factory Production

• Stability Testing: Crucial for the factory to perform comprehensive stability testing.
• Emulsifier Concentration: Consider increasing Light Cream Maker to at least 1-1.5% to improve stability, even if it slightly increases viscosity. Higher percentages (2-3%) might be needed if significant electrolytes are present.
• Ingredient Dissolution/Dispersion: Ensure all ingredients are properly dissolved or stably dispersed. For powders like TECA, Wild Yam, and Phytosphingosine, confirm the optimal incorporation method to prevent sedimentation.
• Mixing Procedure: Develop a detailed procedure specifying order of addition, heating (respecting limits), and mixing speeds (avoid over-spinning) to ensure proper emulsification and dispersion.