Serum Formulation Stability with High Oil and Water Content

Question

Will a serum formulation containing approximately 42% oil-based ingredients (Rose Hip Oil, Moringa Oil, Squalane, Lavender Essential Oil) and 42% water (DI Water, Safe B3, White Curmin) be stable and not separate without a dedicated emulsifier or solubilizer, and what is needed to ensure stability?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Serum Formulation Stability

Based on the ingredients provided:

Rose Hip Oil (20%)
Moringa Oil (10%)
Squalane (Olive) (10%)
Safe B3 (10%)
White curmin (4%)
Mild Preserved Eco (1%)
DI Water (42%)
Lavender Essential Oil (2%)
Ethoxydiglycol (1%)

This formulation contains a high percentage of both oil-based ingredients (totaling approximately 42%) and water-based ingredients (42% DI Water, plus water-soluble Safe B3 and WhiteCumin 2x).

To mix oil and water into a stable serum, an emulsifier or solubilizer is required. Your current formula does not include a primary emulsifier capable of stabilizing this high ratio of oil and water phases. Ingredients like Ethoxydiglycol and Mild Preserved Eco can offer some co-solvency or limited solubilizing effects, but they are not sufficient for this formulation.

Therefore, this mixture is likely to separate into layers and will not form a stable serum. To create a stable product, you would need to add a suitable emulsifier or solubilizer, or reformulate to have a much higher percentage of either the oil or water phase.