Serum Formulation: Texture, Adding Actives (Centella, HA, Alpha Arbutin), and Usage for Different Ages

Asked by: aom7979 On: June 12, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I found a serum formula snippet using Cyclomethicone, Silicone Gel, Warp Cream Maker, and Water (items 3-7 in the water phase, though the full list wasn't provided). I would like to know:

  • Will this base formula result in a light, non-sticky texture that absorbs quickly?
  • Can I add Centella Asiatica Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, and Alpha Arbutin to this serum formulation?
  • Are these ingredients suitable for both a 40-year-old and a 20-year-old?
  • If I use these ingredients at their recommended maximum "active concentration" according to the supplier, will it be too much or potentially irritating for my 20-year-old daughter's skin?
  • How should I incorporate these ingredients into the formula, especially considering the base uses Warp Cream Maker?

Answer

Serum Texture and Base Formula

Based on the typical properties of Cyclomethicone, Silicone Gel, and Warp Cream Maker, a serum formulation using these ingredients is indeed likely to have a light, non-sticky feel and absorb quickly into the skin.

  • Cyclomethicone and Silicone Gel are known for providing a smooth, silky, non-greasy feel and improving spreadability.
  • Warp Cream Maker is a water-in-silicone emulsifier designed to create creams and serums that absorb quickly and leave a smooth, dry finish.

Regarding the specific formula snippet you found, it provides a good starting point, outlining the concept of separating silicone/oil and water phases and using Warp Cream Maker to combine them. However, as noted in the forum replies, the list of ingredients for the water phase (items 3-7) is incomplete in the snippet you provided. Without the full list of ingredients and their percentages in the water phase, it's impossible to fully evaluate that exact formula.

You can certainly use the structure of separating phases and using Warp Cream Maker as a guide, but you will need to build your complete formula, ensuring all components, including the water phase ingredients and a preservative, are accounted for.

Adding Centella Asiatica, Hyaluronic Acid, and Alpha Arbutin

Yes, you can absolutely add Centella Asiatica Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, and Alpha Arbutin to your serum formulation. These are popular and effective active ingredients in skincare.

  • Centella Asiatica Extract: Known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and skin-repairing properties. It can help with redness, irritation, and promoting collagen production. Different types are available, such as those standardized for Madecassoside or a combination of Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Asiaticoside, and Madecassoside (like ActiveRelease™ Centella Asiatica or Centella Acids), or TECA.
  • Hyaluronic Acid: A powerful humectant that draws moisture into the skin, providing hydration and plumping effects. It comes in various molecular weights (Standard, Large, Super Low Molecule) which can offer hydration at different levels of the skin. Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base is also an option for ease of use.
  • Alpha Arbutin: An effective skin brightening agent that helps reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone by inhibiting melanin production.

Suitability and Concentration for Different Ages

These three ingredients are generally suitable for both a 40-year-old and a 20-year-old.

  • For a 40-year-old: Centella Asiatica and Hyaluronic Acid help with hydration and collagen support, addressing signs of aging. Alpha Arbutin can help with age spots or sun damage.
  • For a 20-year-old: Centella Asiatica can help with soothing and preventing inflammation (useful for acne-prone skin or general irritation). Hyaluronic Acid provides essential hydration. Alpha Arbutin can help with post-acne marks or overall skin clarity.

Using these ingredients at their recommended maximum "active concentration" is generally safe according to supplier guidelines, but it's wise to consider individual skin sensitivity, especially for younger skin or if your daughter has sensitive skin.

Typical recommended usage rates are:

  • Centella Asiatica Extract: Often used between 0.1% to 2% (or up to 3% for some specific types like ActiveRelease™).
  • Hyaluronic Acid: Typically used between 0.1% to 0.5% for hydration in a serum (higher percentages can create a thicker gel).
  • Alpha Arbutin: Recommended usage is often up to 2% for skin brightening.

Starting with the recommended usage rates is appropriate. If either you or your daughter have sensitive skin, you might consider starting at a slightly lower concentration for Alpha Arbutin or testing the serum on a small area of skin first.

Incorporating Ingredients into the Formula

To add Centella Asiatica Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, and Alpha Arbutin to a formula like the one you described (using Warp Cream Maker), you would typically dissolve these water-soluble ingredients into the water phase before combining it with the silicone/oil phase containing the Warp Cream Maker.

Crucially, remember to include a suitable preservative in your water phase, as any formula containing water is susceptible to microbial growth. The product descriptions for Hyaluronic Acid often specifically mention the need for a preservative like Phenoxyethanol.

By carefully formulating with these ingredients at appropriate concentrations and following good manufacturing practices (including using a preservative), you can create a beneficial serum suitable for both you and your daughter.