Serum Formulation: Texture Issues and Alternative Anti-Aging/Brightening Ingredients
คำถาม
I am formulating a serum and have some questions about the texture and alternative ingredients.
- When applied, the serum feels a bit viscous/sticky. Is this mainly due to
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule)orGreen Tea Extract? - If I want to change the formula by not using
Apple Stem Cell ExtractandGreen Tea Extract, what alternative ingredients can I use that have similar or better properties for addressing dullness, sun spots, melasma, and wrinkles? The target skin types are combination (some dehydrated) and dry skin, aged 28-60. - Can I change the base from
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule)toAloe Vera Gelto make the serum suitable for both combination and dry skin types? - (Based on staff mentioning Pro Polymer) How should I incorporate
Pro Polymerinto this serum formula, especially if it contains ingredients with high electrolytes (likeSodium Lactate) or low pH?
คำตอบ
Recommendations for Your Serum Formula and Alternative Ingredients
Regarding your questions about your homemade serum formula, the sticky texture, alternative ingredients for reducing melasma, sun spots, and wrinkles, and changing the base to Aloe Vera Gel, here are some recommendations:
Serum Texture Issue
The sticky feeling you experience after applying the serum is primarily due to the Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) you included at 1%. Standard molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid is excellent for creating a gel texture and hydrating the skin, which is great for dry skin. However, for combination or oily skin, it can sometimes feel a bit viscous or sticky. Green Tea Extract can also slightly contribute to the texture, but Hyaluronic Acid is the main factor for the "หนืด" (viscous) feeling. This texture is normal for a serum with this type of HA and is beneficial for dry skin as it helps retain moisture.
Alternative Ingredients for Reducing Melasma, Sun Spots, and Wrinkles
If you wish to modify your formula by not using Apple Stem Cell Extract and Green Tea Extract and are looking for alternative ingredients with similar or better properties to help with dullness, sun spots, melasma, and wrinkles, suitable for combination, dry, and combination dehydrated skin types aged 28-60, you can consider these ingredients:
- Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, Vitamin C Ethyl Ether): This is a highly stable Vitamin C derivative that is water-soluble. It is effective in brightening the skin, reducing dark spots, melasma, and sun spots, and acts as an antioxidant to help slow down the appearance of wrinkles. It is suitable for use in Whitening and Anti-aging formulas.
- Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble): Licorice extract containing Glabridin as the key active compound is well-known for its skin brightening effects and ability to reduce dark spots. It also has anti-irritant properties, helping to soothe the skin.
- Pep-Even™ (Tetrapeptide-30): This peptide helps to even out skin tone and brighten the complexion by inhibiting the transfer of melanin pigment to the upper skin cells (keratinocytes). This helps to reduce dark spots and dullness.
- Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5): This peptide is designed to stimulate collagen production in the skin, effectively reducing wrinkles. Studies have shown it helps reduce wrinkles in width, length, and depth.
- Astaxanthin (2.0% Algae Extract, Water Dispersed Powder): A very powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from UV damage, increases skin moisture and elasticity, contributing to a more youthful appearance.
You can choose to use these ingredients individually or combine them in your formula to enhance the effectiveness in addressing the skin concerns you and your test subjects are experiencing.
Changing the Base from Hyaluronic Acid to Aloe Vera Gel
Yes, you can do this. Changing the base from Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) to Aloe Vera Gel will result in a lighter texture for the serum, making it less sticky compared to using standard molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid. This will feel more comfortable on the skin and can work well for both skin types you mentioned (combination and dry). However, Hyaluronic Acid is excellent for dry skin or for nighttime use as it helps retain moisture effectively. The choice of base depends mainly on the desired feel and results.
If you are using Pro Polymer as a Thickener in your serum formula (as you previously asked about for AHA Gel), you can do so. Generally, Pro Polymer can be added in the initial phase (in water) or the final phase. However, if your formula contains ingredients with high Electrolyte content (like Sodium Lactate) or low pH (like AHA), it is recommended to hydrate Pro Polymer in plain water first to form a gel, and then gradually add the other ingredients. This allows the Pro Polymer to fully develop its gelling properties.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble)