Serum Formulation: Texture Issues, Penetration Enhancers, and Compatibility

Question

I have a serum formulation with the following ingredients:

MSH 6%
SymWhite 0.5%
GlucoBright 4%
SafeB3 5%
WhiteCumin 3%
tranexamic 3%
4MSK 3%
Water (remaining)

Initially, I tried formulating it using SilliSolve Plus, Cyclomethicone, and Phospholipid. The texture felt sticky and separated slightly (possibly due to insufficient mixing). I then changed to using AnyGel 2% and Phospholipid, but the texture still feels a bit sticky. I want the serum to absorb quickly and not feel sticky. Could you provide further advice on how to achieve this?

Also, I observed a peeling sensation when using the serum, similar to dead skin coming off, but without irritation. Is this normal?

Additionally, I have questions about compatibility:

Can I apply this serum after using another serum that contains 1,2-Hexanediol?
Can 1,2-Hexanediol and Phospholipid be used together in the same formula?

Finally, how does the penetration enhancement ability of Phospholipid compare to 1,2-Hexanediol 3%?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Serum Formulation Feedback

Thank you for providing your serum formulation and questions. Let's address your points regarding the texture, the peeling sensation, and compatibility with other products.

Texture Issues (Stickiness and Separation)

You mentioned that your formula using SiliSolve Plus, Cyclomethicone, and Phospholipid felt sticky and separated slightly, and the modified formula using AnyGel and Phospholipid still felt a bit sticky.

The staff correctly suggested adjusting the silicone component to improve the texture. Cyclomethicone is a lightweight silicone that evaporates quickly and provides a silky, non-sticky feel. If you were using 10% Cyclomethicone in your initial attempt, you might need to ensure thorough mixing, especially when adding the water phase gradually to the oil/silicone phase containing SiliSolve Plus. Insufficient blending time can lead to separation.

For a smoother, less sticky texture, especially with a high concentration of active ingredients, consider the staff's recommendation to use Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky) at 5-8%. This ingredient is specifically designed to improve spreadability and provide a soft, silky, non-sticky feel, making the formula lighter and more pleasant on the skin.

Peeling Sensation

You observed a peeling sensation after using the serum, similar to dead skin coming off, but without irritation. This is likely due to the GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) in your formula. GlucoBright is known to have a gentle exfoliating effect, helping to remove dead skin cells and promote skin renewal. This can lead to brighter and smoother skin over time, which aligns with your observation of your skin feeling soft and looking clearer the next morning. This effect is generally considered beneficial for improving skin texture and radiance.

Compatibility Questions

You asked if you can apply this serum after using another serum containing 1,2-Hexanediol and if 1,2-Hexanediol and Phospholipid can be used together.

Yes, you can apply your serum after using another product containing 1,2-Hexanediol. These ingredients are generally compatible in a skincare routine.

Regarding using 1,2-Hexanediol and Phospholipid together in the same formula, the staff confirmed that this is also possible. While Phospholipid is generally more effective as a penetration enhancer and also provides moisturizing benefits, 1,2-Hexanediol serves multiple functions including being a solvent, humectant, preservative booster, and a penetration enhancer with a different mechanism. Using them together can potentially offer combined benefits, depending on the overall formula composition and desired outcome.