Serum Formulation Viability and Stability with Silicones and Actives

Question

I have developed a serum formulation and would like to know if it is viable and stable. The formulation is as follows:

Cyclomethicone 20% (Silicone is secondary, less than 50% of the formula)
Silicone Gel 5%
Water 56.5%
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5%
Ethyl Ascorbic acid 3%
Tomato Extract (Lycopene) 5%
Copper Peptide 1.5%
Warp Cream Maker™ 4%

Does this formulation structure seem appropriate for a stable serum?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Regarding your proposed serum formulation, the percentages of the ingredients you listed add up to 100%, which is a good starting point.

The formulation contains both a water phase (Water, Safe-B3™, Ethyl Ascorbic acid, Tomato Extract, Copper Peptide) and a silicone/oil phase (Cyclomethicone, Silicone Gel). To combine these phases into a stable serum, an emulsifier is necessary. You have included Warp Cream Maker™ at 4%, which is intended to serve this purpose.

The viability and stability of this formulation depend on several factors:

Emulsification: Whether Warp Cream Maker™ can effectively emulsify the specific combination of silicones and water phase ingredients to create a stable, homogenous serum that doesn't separate over time.
Active Ingredient Compatibility: While Niacinamide, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tomato Extract, and Copper Peptide are beneficial actives, combining Vitamin C (Ethyl Ascorbic Acid), Niacinamide, and Copper Peptide in the same formulation can be challenging due to potential interactions that might affect stability or efficacy, depending on the pH and concentrations.
Manufacturing Process: The method and order of mixing the ingredients are crucial for successful emulsification and stability.

In summary, the formulation structure with an emulsifier is theoretically sound for combining the phases. However, successful execution requires careful consideration of ingredient compatibility, the effectiveness of the chosen emulsifier for this specific system, and proper manufacturing techniques. It is highly recommended to create a small test batch to evaluate its stability, appearance, and feel before making a larger quantity.