Formulation Feedback and Suggestions

Based on your proposed formulation and the feedback received, here are some points to consider:

Ingredient Compatibility

The feedback regarding the incompatibility of Vit C AA2G (Ascorbyl Glucoside) and Zinc (Zinc PCA) is correct. According to the product information, Ascorbyl Glucoside is unstable in formulas containing Zinc PCA. Therefore, you should choose only one of these ingredients for your formulation.

Given your goal might include skin brightening (indicated by Vit C AA2G) and the suggestion to remove Zinc PCA, proceeding without Zinc PCA is advisable if brightening is a priority. Zinc PCA is beneficial for reducing oiliness and helping with acne healing, which suits your skin type, but its incompatibility with AA2G makes their co-use problematic in this formula.

Piltera as a Solvent

"Piltera" is not a standard cosmetic ingredient name found in our database. For dissolving the powder ingredients in your formula, you will need a water base. The 13g of water you mentioned adding is necessary for dissolving the water-soluble components.

Ingredient Concentrations

• Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): The suggestion to increase Vitamin B3 is good. For oily and acne-prone skin, using Niacinamide at a concentration of 3-5% (or even up to 10% with a high-purity grade like Safe-B3) can be very effective for reducing oiliness, minimizing pores, and improving skin barrier function. Your initial 2g (2%) is a good start, but increasing it could provide more benefits.
• Vit C AA2G (Ascorbyl Glucoside): Your proposed 20g (20%) is a very high concentration. While Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable form of Vitamin C, such a high percentage might cause irritation, especially for sensitive skin. A usage rate of 2-10% is typically recommended for brightening and antioxidant benefits. Given the potential for irritation and the need to balance the total formula weight, you might consider reducing this amount.

Adding Pro Polymer for Texture

Adding a gel maker like Pro Polymer is an excellent idea to improve the texture and ease of application, preventing the serum from being too watery. You can start with a low concentration, such as 0.2%, as suggested, to achieve a slightly viscous serum texture. Pro Polymer dissolves in water. To incorporate it, sprinkle the powder onto the water phase and stir slowly until a smooth gel texture forms. Avoid high-speed blending, which can damage the polymer.

Revised Formulation Suggestion

Considering the compatibility issues and suggestions, here is a possible revised structure for your 100g formula (adjusting percentages based on your needs and total weight):

• Water: ~60-70g (adjust based on other ingredients)
• Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 3-5g
• N-acetyl-d glucosamine (GlucoBright): 4g
• Matrixyl 3000: 5g
• Vit C AA2G (Ascorbyl Glucoside): 5-10g (adjust based on desired strength and total weight)
• Pro Polymer: 0.2-0.5g (start low and increase if needed for desired viscosity)
• Other necessary additives (e.g., preservative) to reach 100g.

This revised formula removes the incompatible Zinc PCA and adjusts the Vitamin B3 and AA2G concentrations to more typical and potentially less irritating levels while incorporating Pro Polymer for better texture.

Always ensure all ingredients are fully dissolved and the formula is properly preserved before use.