Serum Formulation with AA2G and HEC for Brightening
Asked by: siwarin.e
On: February 18, 2019
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
Request for a serum formulation using Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G) in a Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) base.
The desired properties are:
- Skin brightening
- Moisturizing (non-drying)
- Non-irritating (non-allergic)
Answer
Serum Formulation with AA2G and HEC
Here is a sample formulation for a brightening serum using Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G) in a Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) base, designed to be non-drying and suitable for sensitive skin.
Key Considerations:
- Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G) is most stable at a pH between 6.5 and 6.8. It is crucial to adjust the final serum pH to this range.
- Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) requires heating to approximately 70°C to dissolve and form a gel.
Sample Formulation Structure:
Phase A (Water Phase):
- Water (Distilled/Deionized): ~70-80%
- Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC): 0.5-1.5% (adjust for desired viscosity)
- Glycerin: 3-5% (for hydration)
- Mild Preserved™ COS: 1% (broad-spectrum preservative)
Phase B (Active Phase):
- Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G): 2-10% (choose desired concentration)
- Water (small amount from Phase A water): To dissolve AA2G
- Citrate Buffer or L-Arginine: As recommended for AA2G dissolution/pH control (refer to AA2G product details)
- pH Adjuster (e.g., Triethanolamine or Sodium Hydroxide solution): As needed to reach pH 6.5-6.8
Preparation Steps:
- Prepare Phase A: Heat the main portion of the water to 70°C. Slowly add Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) while stirring continuously until a uniform gel forms. Let the gel cool down.
- Once cooled, add Glycerin and Mild Preserved™ COS to the HEC gel base. Stir thoroughly until all ingredients are evenly dispersed.
- Prepare Phase B: In a separate container, dissolve the Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G) in a small amount of water (taken from the total water amount in Phase A). If using, add Citrate Buffer or L-Arginine as recommended by the AA2G product instructions.
- Measure the pH of the AA2G solution. Carefully add a pH adjuster (such as a dilute solution of Triethanolamine or Sodium Hydroxide) drop by drop, stirring and re-measuring the pH until it reaches the target range of 6.5-6.8.
- Combine Phases: Slowly add the pH-adjusted AA2G solution (Phase B) to the HEC gel base (Phase A) while stirring continuously. Continue stirring until the entire serum is homogenous and clear.
- Final Check: Measure the pH of the final serum to ensure it is within the stable range of 6.5-6.8. Adjust slightly if necessary.
This formulation provides the brightening benefits of AA2G with a hydrating and non-irritating base from HEC and Glycerin, preserved effectively with Mild Preserved™ COS.
Related Products Mentioned
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Cosmetics
Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) (4500mPa.s)
Cosmetics