Serum Formulation with AA2G and HEC for Brightening

Asked by: siwarin.e On: February 18, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Request for a serum formulation using Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G) in a Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) base.

The desired properties are:

  • Skin brightening
  • Moisturizing (non-drying)
  • Non-irritating (non-allergic)

Answer

Serum Formulation with AA2G and HEC

Here is a sample formulation for a brightening serum using Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G) in a Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) base, designed to be non-drying and suitable for sensitive skin.

Key Considerations:

  • Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G) is most stable at a pH between 6.5 and 6.8. It is crucial to adjust the final serum pH to this range.
  • Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) requires heating to approximately 70°C to dissolve and form a gel.

Sample Formulation Structure:

  • Phase A (Water Phase):

    • Water (Distilled/Deionized): ~70-80%
    • Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC): 0.5-1.5% (adjust for desired viscosity)
    • Glycerin: 3-5% (for hydration)
    • Mild Preserved™ COS: 1% (broad-spectrum preservative)
  • Phase B (Active Phase):

    • Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G): 2-10% (choose desired concentration)
    • Water (small amount from Phase A water): To dissolve AA2G
    • Citrate Buffer or L-Arginine: As recommended for AA2G dissolution/pH control (refer to AA2G product details)
    • pH Adjuster (e.g., Triethanolamine or Sodium Hydroxide solution): As needed to reach pH 6.5-6.8

Preparation Steps:

  1. Prepare Phase A: Heat the main portion of the water to 70°C. Slowly add Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) while stirring continuously until a uniform gel forms. Let the gel cool down.
  2. Once cooled, add Glycerin and Mild Preserved™ COS to the HEC gel base. Stir thoroughly until all ingredients are evenly dispersed.
  3. Prepare Phase B: In a separate container, dissolve the Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G) in a small amount of water (taken from the total water amount in Phase A). If using, add Citrate Buffer or L-Arginine as recommended by the AA2G product instructions.
  4. Measure the pH of the AA2G solution. Carefully add a pH adjuster (such as a dilute solution of Triethanolamine or Sodium Hydroxide) drop by drop, stirring and re-measuring the pH until it reaches the target range of 6.5-6.8.
  5. Combine Phases: Slowly add the pH-adjusted AA2G solution (Phase B) to the HEC gel base (Phase A) while stirring continuously. Continue stirring until the entire serum is homogenous and clear.
  6. Final Check: Measure the pH of the final serum to ensure it is within the stable range of 6.5-6.8. Adjust slightly if necessary.

This formulation provides the brightening benefits of AA2G with a hydrating and non-irritating base from HEC and Glycerin, preserved effectively with Mild Preserved™ COS.