Serum Formulation with Niacinamide, PHA, and Hyaluronic Acid
Asked by: kphphph
On: January 10, 2018
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
I am developing a water-based serum formulation with the following ingredients. Could you please provide a breakdown of each ingredient's role, recommended usage percentage, the mixing procedure, and confirm the claimed benefits, specifically regarding acne reduction and achieving a "refreshed" skin feel? I am also curious about using Niacinamide at a high concentration like 15%.
Ingredients:
- Aqua (Water)
- Niacinamide (Safe-B3)
- Glycerin
- Sorbitol
- Butylene Glycol
- Gluconolactone (Natural PHA)
- Hyaluronic Acid (Double Hyaluron Liquid)
- Xanthan Gum
- Sodium Benzoate (part of Global Guard)
Answer
Serum Formulation Breakdown
This serum formulation is primarily water-based and combines ingredients for hydration, gentle exfoliation, and benefits targeting acne and skin barrier health.
Here are the typical roles and recommended usage ranges for each ingredient:
- Aqua (Water): The main base of the serum, dissolving water-soluble ingredients. Typically makes up 60-80%+ of the formula.
- Niacinamide (Safe-B3): A key active ingredient (Product ID: 74) known for reducing wrinkles, improving skin tone, helping with acne (reducing inflammation and oiliness), strengthening the skin barrier, and increasing hydration. Recommended usage is typically 1-10%. The Safe-B3 type can be used up to 10% without causing flushing. While 15% was mentioned, research does not currently show significantly better results above 5-10%, as noted by staff.
- Glycerin: A common humectant (Product ID: 143) that attracts and retains moisture, keeping skin hydrated and smooth. Also acts as a solvent. Can be used from 1-100%, typically 5-15% in serums.
- Sorbitol: Another humectant (Product ID: 763, Sorbitol Solution 70%) that moisturizes the skin and contributes to texture. Typical usage in cosmetics is around 1-10%.
- Butylene Glycol: A solvent and humectant (Product ID: 320) that helps dissolve ingredients and adds hydration. More gentle than Propylene Glycol. Usage rate is typically 1-20%.
- Gluconolactone (Natural PHA): A PHA (Product ID: 536) providing gentle exfoliation to promote skin cell turnover, improving texture and radiance. Also has humectant properties. Recommended usage is 1-15%. Optimal efficacy is at pH 3.4-4.5.
- Hyaluronic Acid (Double Hyaluron Liquid): A liquid containing 5% Hyaluronic Acid (Product ID: 404) for intense hydration at different skin depths. Recommended usage rate for the liquid is 1-20% (e.g., 3-5% for normal skin, 10-20% for very dry skin).
- Xanthan Gum: A natural thickener (Product ID: 216) to create serum texture and provide stability. Recommended usage is 0.1-2%, typically 1% for serum viscosity.
- Sodium Benzoate: A preservative (part of Global Guard, Product ID: 879) effective in formulas with pH below 5.5. Recommended usage for Global Guard is 0.5-1.5%.
Mixing Procedure:
- Combine Water, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Gluconolactone, and Hyaluronic Acid Liquid. Stir until dissolved.
- Disperse Xanthan Gum (can pre-disperse in glycerin/butylene glycol or add slowly to water with high-speed stirring) and mix until a uniform gel forms.
- Add Global Guard and stir.
- Measure and adjust pH to 3.5-5.5 for optimal efficacy and preservation.
Claimed Benefits:
- Helps with acne and reduces inflammation: Yes, Niacinamide is effective for this, and gentle exfoliation from Gluconolactone can also help.
- Helps skin feel refreshed: The blend of humectants provides significant hydration, contributing to a feeling of freshness.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
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Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
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Butylene Glycol
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Double Hyaluron Liquid
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Natural PHA (Gluconolactone)
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Sorbitol Solution 70%
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Global Guard™ K712
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