Serum Formulation with Niacinamide, PHA, and Hyaluronic Acid

Asked by: kphphph On: January 10, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a water-based serum formulation with the following ingredients. Could you please provide a breakdown of each ingredient's role, recommended usage percentage, the mixing procedure, and confirm the claimed benefits, specifically regarding acne reduction and achieving a "refreshed" skin feel? I am also curious about using Niacinamide at a high concentration like 15%.

Ingredients:

  • Aqua (Water)
  • Niacinamide (Safe-B3)
  • Glycerin
  • Sorbitol
  • Butylene Glycol
  • Gluconolactone (Natural PHA)
  • Hyaluronic Acid (Double Hyaluron Liquid)
  • Xanthan Gum
  • Sodium Benzoate (part of Global Guard)

Answer

Serum Formulation Breakdown

This serum formulation is primarily water-based and combines ingredients for hydration, gentle exfoliation, and benefits targeting acne and skin barrier health.

Here are the typical roles and recommended usage ranges for each ingredient:

  • Aqua (Water): The main base of the serum, dissolving water-soluble ingredients. Typically makes up 60-80%+ of the formula.
  • Niacinamide (Safe-B3): A key active ingredient (Product ID: 74) known for reducing wrinkles, improving skin tone, helping with acne (reducing inflammation and oiliness), strengthening the skin barrier, and increasing hydration. Recommended usage is typically 1-10%. The Safe-B3 type can be used up to 10% without causing flushing. While 15% was mentioned, research does not currently show significantly better results above 5-10%, as noted by staff.
  • Glycerin: A common humectant (Product ID: 143) that attracts and retains moisture, keeping skin hydrated and smooth. Also acts as a solvent. Can be used from 1-100%, typically 5-15% in serums.
  • Sorbitol: Another humectant (Product ID: 763, Sorbitol Solution 70%) that moisturizes the skin and contributes to texture. Typical usage in cosmetics is around 1-10%.
  • Butylene Glycol: A solvent and humectant (Product ID: 320) that helps dissolve ingredients and adds hydration. More gentle than Propylene Glycol. Usage rate is typically 1-20%.
  • Gluconolactone (Natural PHA): A PHA (Product ID: 536) providing gentle exfoliation to promote skin cell turnover, improving texture and radiance. Also has humectant properties. Recommended usage is 1-15%. Optimal efficacy is at pH 3.4-4.5.
  • Hyaluronic Acid (Double Hyaluron Liquid): A liquid containing 5% Hyaluronic Acid (Product ID: 404) for intense hydration at different skin depths. Recommended usage rate for the liquid is 1-20% (e.g., 3-5% for normal skin, 10-20% for very dry skin).
  • Xanthan Gum: A natural thickener (Product ID: 216) to create serum texture and provide stability. Recommended usage is 0.1-2%, typically 1% for serum viscosity.
  • Sodium Benzoate: A preservative (part of Global Guard, Product ID: 879) effective in formulas with pH below 5.5. Recommended usage for Global Guard is 0.5-1.5%.

Mixing Procedure:

  1. Combine Water, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Gluconolactone, and Hyaluronic Acid Liquid. Stir until dissolved.
  2. Disperse Xanthan Gum (can pre-disperse in glycerin/butylene glycol or add slowly to water with high-speed stirring) and mix until a uniform gel forms.
  3. Add Global Guard and stir.
  4. Measure and adjust pH to 3.5-5.5 for optimal efficacy and preservation.

Claimed Benefits:

  • Helps with acne and reduces inflammation: Yes, Niacinamide is effective for this, and gentle exfoliation from Gluconolactone can also help.
  • Helps skin feel refreshed: The blend of humectants provides significant hydration, contributing to a feeling of freshness.