Serum Formulation with Silky Serum Base Plus: Mixing, Viscosity, and Stability

ถามโดย: meawnada เมื่อ: October 10, 2016 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

The user is formulating a serum for anti-aging and whitening using Silky Serum Base Plus. They are asking for clarification on several points regarding the formulation process, including:

  • Verification of their proposed mixing steps.
  • Confirming if adding Cyclomethicone without heat makes the formula more liquid.
  • Confirming if adding water without heat makes the formula thicker.
  • Asking about the maximum percentage of Water or Cyclomethicone that can be added to adjust viscosity.
  • Asking in which cases Silky Serum Base Plus can be added to the formula.
  • Asking if Silky Serum Base Plus can be heated, especially if the formula does not contain Full and Lift, and if it can be mixed without heat in that case.
  • Asking about the pH tolerance of Silky Serum Base Plus at pH 5.5 and the reason for separation observed after adjusting pH and adding more water/base.

คำตอบ

Serum Formulation for Anti-Aging and Whitening

Based on the ingredients and your questions, here is a review of the mixing process and answers to your specific questions.

Mixing Process Review

Your proposed mixing steps have a few points that could lead to instability or reduced efficacy of some ingredients. It's important to consider the solubility and heat sensitivity of each component.

A suggested mixing procedure for your formula using Silky Serum Base Plus is as follows:

  1. Prepare the Water Phase (Part A): Combine Water and Disodium EDTA. Stir until dissolved.
  2. Add Heat-Sensitive Water-Soluble Ingredients: To the water phase, add DMAE, Panthenol, Snail Secretion, Safe-B3, Tranexamic Acid, and Grape Seed Extract. Stir until fully dissolved. Ensure the temperature is below 40°C when adding DMAE, Snail Secretion, and Grape Seed Extract.
  3. Adjust pH: Check and adjust the pH of the water phase to 5.5 at this stage.
  4. Prepare the Oil/Base Phase (Part B): Combine Silky Serum Base Plus, Fractionated Coconut Oil, and Cyclomethicone. Mix well without heat.
  5. Prepare Part C: Dissolve Full and Lift in a small amount of water. If heating to 50-60°C is required for dissolution based on the specific product instructions you have, do so separately and then let it cool slightly before adding to the main mixture.
  6. Combine Phases: While continuously blending or stirring the Oil/Base Phase (Part B), slowly add the Water Phase (Part A) to it. Blend thoroughly until a homogeneous serum texture is formed. Using a blender with sufficient speed (minimum 500 rpm as per Silky Serum Base Plus description) is highly recommended for proper emulsification and stability.
  7. Add Part C: Add the prepared Full and Lift solution (Part C) to the main mixture and blend until fully incorporated.
  8. Add Part D: Add Vitamin E and Coenzyme Q10 to the mixture. Ensure the temperature is below 40°C when adding these ingredients. Blend until homogeneous.
  9. Add Preservative: Add Phenoxyethanol SA as the final ingredient. Blend until fully dispersed. Ensure the temperature is below 60°C.

This order helps ensure that heat-sensitive ingredients are not exposed to high temperatures and that the emulsion forms correctly for better stability.

Answers to Your Questions

  1. ขั้นตอนการผสมข้างต้นถูกหรือไม่คะ (Are the mixing steps above correct?)
    Based on the typical requirements of the ingredients, especially the Silky Serum Base Plus and heat-sensitive actives, your original steps are not entirely correct. The order of combining the water and oil/base phases should be adjusted, and heat-sensitive ingredients should be added in the cool-down phase. The suggested steps above provide a more appropriate method.

  2. ถ้าต้องการให้สูตรเหลวขึ้นให้ใส่ Cyclomethicone เพิ่มลงไป โดยไม่ต้องใช้ความร้อน ... เข้าใจถูกไหมคะ (If you want the formula to be more liquid, add more Cyclomethicone without heat... Is that correct?)
    Yes, that is correct. Cyclomethicone is a lightweight silicone that helps reduce the viscosity and provides a silky feel. It can be added without heat to make the serum more liquid.

  3. ถ้าต้องการให้สูตรข้นขึ้น ให้เพิ่มน้ำเข้าไป โดยไม่ต้องใช้ความร้อน .... เข้าใจถูกไหมคะ (If you want the formula to be thicker, add more water without heat... Is that correct?)
    Yes, increasing the proportion of water relative to the Silky Serum Base Plus and oil/silicone components will generally make the serum thicker. This adjustment can be done without heat. However, adding water after the emulsion has already formed can sometimes disrupt the stability and lead to separation if not re-emulsified properly with sufficient blending. It is best to finalize your water percentage in the initial formulation.

  4. ในกรณีที่เพิ่ม น้ำ หรือ Cyclomethicone เพื่อให้สูตรข้นขึ้นหรือเหลวขึ้น สามารถเพิ่มได้กี่ % คะ (In case of adding Water or Cyclomethicone to make the formula thicker or more liquid, what percentage can be added?)
    Silky Serum Base Plus can accommodate a total oil and silicone percentage (including the base itself) of up to 30%. Your initial formula has 10% Silky Serum Base Plus, 5% Fractionated Coconut Oil, and 5% Cyclomethicone, totaling 20% oil/silicone/base components. This means you have room to add more Cyclomethicone, up to a total oil/silicone/base percentage of 30%. For example, you could potentially increase Cyclomethicone by up to 10% (bringing the total oil/silicone/base to 30%).
    For water, Silky Serum Base Plus works with 30-90% water, recommending at least 60% (ideally 70% for stability). Your initial formula has approximately 73% water phase. Increasing the water percentage will make it thicker, but you must ensure the total oil/silicone/base percentage does not exceed 30%. The exact percentage you can add depends on your desired viscosity and the current composition, but stay within the recommended ranges for Silky Serum Base Plus (at least 60% water, total oil/silicone/base including the base itself not exceeding 30%).

  5. ในกรณีไหนบ้าง ที่เราจะเพิ่ม เบส Silky Serum Base Plus เข้าไปในสูตรได้คะ (In which cases can we add Silky Serum Base Plus to the formula?)
    You would add Silky Serum Base Plus to the formula as part of the oil/base phase during the initial mixing process. It is the primary emulsifier and texture modifier in this type of serum. You would increase its percentage if you want to emulsify a higher percentage of oil/silicone (up to the 30% total limit) or if you are adjusting the overall texture and stability, keeping in mind the recommended water percentage. Adding it after the emulsion has formed is generally not recommended for stability.

  6. Silky Serum Base Plus โดยความร้อนได้หรือไม่คะ ถ้าไม่มี full and lift ในสูตร สามารถผสมได้เลยโดยไม่ใช้ความร้อน ... เข้าใจถูกไหมคะ (Can Silky Serum Base Plus be heated? If there is no Full and Lift in the formula, can it be mixed without heat... Is that correct?)
    The Silky Serum Base Plus itself does not require heat for mixing. Its description suggests mixing it with the oil part and then adding the water phase. If your formula does not contain ingredients in the oil or base phase that require heat for melting or dissolution (like waxes, although your current formula doesn't have them in Part B), you can mix the Silky Serum Base Plus, Fractionated Coconut Oil, and Cyclomethicone without heat. The instruction to heat in your original steps was likely related to the Full and Lift or other components, not the base itself.

  7. ถ้าทำให้สูตรมี PH 5.5 Silky Serum Base Plus สามารถทน PH ได้หรือไม่คะ (If the formula has a pH of 5.5, can Silky Serum Base Plus tolerate the pH?)
    While the specific pH range for Silky Serum Base Plus is not explicitly stated in its description, the fact that it is used in cosmetic formulations with ingredients like DMAE (pH 4-8), Safe-B3 (pH 3-8, best 4-7), and Tranexamic Acid (pH 3-8) strongly suggests that it is stable and effective within the typical cosmetic pH range, including pH 5.5. The separation you experienced after adjusting the pH might be more related to the total oil/silicone/base concentration exceeding the base's capacity or insufficient re-emulsification after the adjustment.

The separation you observed after adjusting the pH and adding more water and base is likely due to either the total percentage of oil/silicone/base components exceeding the 30% limit that Silky Serum Base Plus can handle, or the emulsion structure being disrupted by adding ingredients and adjusting pH after it had already formed, requiring more vigorous and proper re-emulsification. Ensuring your total oil/silicone/base is within the 30% limit and using sufficient blending power during the combining phase are key for stability.

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