Serum/Gel Formula Review: Electrolyte Compatibility & Texture

Subject: Formula Review and Advice

Thank you for sharing your formula. Here is a review and some advice based on your questions:

Your formula includes a high concentration of various active ingredients, solvents, an emollient, a preservative, and a gel maker. The total percentage is slightly over 100%, which might be a minor calculation or rounding error.

Let's address your specific questions:

1. Ingredient Compatibility, Water Content, and Texture:

   • Most ingredients are generally compatible. However, the main compatibility concern is the interaction between the chosen gel maker, Pro Polymer™ (Acrylate Crosspolymer), and the various active ingredients, some of which may contain electrolytes (e.g., fermentation products, extracts, colloidal gold). Electrolytes can interfere with the thickening efficiency and stability of acrylate crosspolymers.
   • The water content at 50% is relatively low for a serum/gel with such a high load of other ingredients. This, combined with 3% of a thickener, is likely to result in a thick texture.
   • The final texture will depend heavily on how well Pro Polymer™ performs in the presence of potential electrolytes. It could range from a thick gel to a thinner, potentially unstable gel if interference is significant.

2. Soft and Smooth Texture / LipidSoft™ Lite vs. Silicone:

   • LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate) at 5% will contribute to a smoother, softer feel and reduce tackiness in the gel. It's a good emollient for a light gel texture.
   • Silicones (like Dimethicone) typically provide a more distinct "silky" or "slippery" feel compared to ester emollients like LipidSoft™ Lite.
   • Whether 5% LipidSoft™ Lite is sufficient for your desired "นุ่มลื่น" (soft and smooth/slippery) feel is subjective, but it's a reasonable starting point. Using silicone might achieve a different type of "lื่น" feel, but incorporating silicones into a water-based gel like this often requires emulsifiers or a different base system, adding complexity. Sticking with LipidSoft™ Lite is simpler for this formula structure.

3. Pro Polymer™ and Electrolytes / Alternative Gel Makers:

   • Yes, as mentioned, Pro Polymer™ (Acrylate Crosspolymer) is sensitive to electrolytes. Using 3% might be an attempt to achieve sufficient viscosity despite potential interference, but it could also lead to a very heavy texture if interference is minimal, or instability if interference is high.
   • Given the electrolyte-containing ingredients in your formula, it is highly recommended to use a gel maker that is tolerant to electrolytes for better stability and a more predictable texture.
   • Suitable electrolyte-tolerant gel makers include:
     • Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC): A non-ionic thickener, generally tolerant to electrolytes.
     • Xanthan Gum (Cosmetic Grade): A natural polysaccharide, also generally electrolyte tolerant.
     • Specific synthetic polymers designed for electrolyte tolerance: Check the supplier's product descriptions for gel makers explicitly stated as electrolyte-tolerant.
   • The appropriate usage percentage for these alternatives will vary depending on the specific product, but typically ranges from 0.5% to 2% for achieving a gel consistency. You would need to test to find the desired viscosity.

Recommendation:
Consider replacing Pro Polymer™ with an electrolyte-tolerant gel maker. Start with a small test batch to evaluate the texture and stability before making a larger quantity.