Serum Pilling and White Residue Issue

Asked by: srwy_mild On: November 22, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

My serum formulation, containing ingredients like Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Beta Glucan, 8D Hyaluronic Acid, and others, forms white residue or pills when rubbed. What are the potential causes for this texture issue, and how can it be resolved?

Answer

Hello. The problem of serum texture forming white residue or pilling when rubbed is often caused by ingredients with film-forming properties at high concentrations.

Based on the list of ingredients you provided, the main potential culprits for this issue are:

  1. 8D Hyaluronic Acid (8%): Hyaluronic Acid, especially high molecular weight types, is a very effective film-former. A concentration of 8% is considered very high and is a primary cause of pilling.
  2. Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract) (4%): Beta Glucan is also a film-forming agent, and a concentration of 4% can contribute to this problem.
  3. Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (30%): Ferment filtrates at high concentrations may contain components that form a film or cause tackiness, which can lead to pilling.

Furthermore, having multiple film-forming ingredients at high concentrations in a single formula increases the likelihood of pilling.

Suggested Solutions:

  1. Reduce the concentration of the main potential culprits: Consider lowering the concentrations of 8D Hyaluronic Acid, Beta Glucan, and Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate.
  2. Adjust the molecular weight distribution of Hyaluronic Acid: If using multiple types of Hyaluronic Acid, try increasing the proportion of lower molecular weight types, which tend to absorb better and form less of a film than high molecular weight types.
  3. Add ingredients that improve slip (Slip Agents): You might consider adding certain ingredients that help the serum spread more easily and reduce tackiness, such as certain esters or silicones (if your formula does not aim to be silicone-free).
  4. Review the formulation process: Sometimes the issue can stem from improper mixing methods, such as stirring too fast or adding ingredients in the wrong order.

Balancing film-forming ingredients and ingredients that improve texture is key to resolving the pilling issue in serums.