Serum Texture Improvement and Base Recommendations

It sounds like you're looking to achieve a lighter, faster-absorbing serum texture and explore different base options for varying oil concentrations, as well as address melasma and freckles.

Improving Serum Texture with Light Cream Maker

You are currently using Light Cream Maker, which is designed to create light, easily absorbed creams with up to 20% oil. If your serum feels heavy and slow to absorb despite using this base with 20% oil, it might be due to the specific type of oils used or the mixing technique. To improve the texture and achieve a lighter, faster-absorbing, non-sticky feel, you can add a light emollient to your formula.

Based on your interest and product characteristics:

• LipidSoft Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate) is an excellent choice. It has a very light, non-oily feel, similar to Cyclomethicone, and helps formulas spread easily without clogging pores. It's ideal for achieving a light, non-sticky texture.
• LipidSoft CC (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate) is also a good option. It provides softness and smoothness, helps formulas spread easily, and is suitable for lighter textures.
• LipidSoft Moist (Triethylhexanoin) focuses on moisturizing while still being light and non-sticky with excellent spreadability.

Adding one of these LipidSoft types to your existing Light Cream Maker formula can significantly improve the texture, making it feel lighter and absorb faster. Start with a small percentage (e.g., 1-5%) and adjust as needed.

Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) is primarily a penetration enhancer to help active ingredients absorb better into the skin. While it can act as a solvent, it is not typically used as the main ingredient to improve the overall texture and feel of a cream or serum base in the way emollients like the LipidSoft range are.

Comparing Light Cream Maker and Satin Cream Maker

Satin Cream Maker is another heat-free emulsifier that can handle up to 25% oil and is resistant to electrolytes. It creates a soft and smooth texture and helps absorb bubbles. While it's a good base, Light Cream Maker is already described as producing a light and easily absorbed texture. If you are experiencing heaviness with Light Cream Maker, it's more likely an issue with other ingredients (like heavy oils) or the process rather than the base itself being inherently heavy. Both bases can work for a serum with 20% oil. If you prefer to try a different base, Satin Cream Maker is a viable option, but adding a light emollient to your current Light Cream Maker formula might be a more direct solution for texture improvement.

Ingredients for Melasma and Freckles

To address melasma and freckles, several active ingredients can be effective. Some popular and potent options include:

• Activated Resorcinol (4-Butyl Resorcinol): Known for its strong tyrosinase inhibiting activity, helping to reduce melanin production.
• Tranexamic Acid: Works to reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
• MSH White (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine): Inhibits the synthesis of melanin.
• Hexylresorcinol AF: Another effective skin brightening agent.
• Phenylethyl Resorcinol (SymWhite 377): A highly effective skin lightener.

These ingredients can be incorporated into your serum formula to target hyperpigmentation.

Base for High Oil Content Serum (70-80% Oil)

For a serum with a very high oil content (70-80%), such as one based on Fractionated Coconut Oil, you will need a specialized emulsifier designed for oil-rich formulas. Standard cream makers like Light Cream Maker or Satin Cream Maker are not suitable for such high oil percentages.

Oil Cream Maker is designed specifically for formulas containing a high percentage of oil, capable of holding up to 70% oil while maintaining stability. It requires a blender for mixing to properly bind the oil and water phases and create a creamy texture. This would be a suitable base for your high-oil serum formulation.

By selecting the appropriate base for your oil concentration and incorporating suitable emollients and active ingredients, you can create serums with the desired texture and target specific skin concerns like melasma and freckles.