Shampoo Thickening with Non-ionic Surfactants and Oil

Question

In a shampoo formula using Decyl Glucoside, Coco Wash (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate), and Flora Foam (Dimethyl Lauramide/Myristamide), which also contains 5-10% oil, the formula does not thicken properly. Attempts to use Thick Clean did not result in thickening. Using Xanthan Gum resulted in thickening but the texture was not desirable. What ingredient should be used to achieve the desired viscosity and texture?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Shampoo Thickening for Formulas with Oil

It sounds like you're facing a common challenge when thickening shampoo formulas that contain non-ionic surfactants like Decyl Glucoside and PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, especially with a significant oil load (5-10%). Traditional thickeners like salt or Xanthan Gum often don't perform optimally in these systems.

Salt primarily thickens by interacting with anionic surfactant micelles, which are less dominant in your formula. Xanthan Gum, a polymer, thickens the water phase but may not provide the desired clarity or texture in surfactant systems, particularly those with oil.

Here are some thickeners better suited for formulas containing non-ionic surfactants and oil:

Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol: This is a nonionic associative thickener specifically designed for clear cleansing systems. It offers excellent synergistic thickening with various surfactants (including non-ionics) and salt, works over a wide pH range (2-12), and helps maintain clarity. It can be incorporated with heat or via a cold premix.
Aristoflex AVC (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer): A polymer thickener effective in water-based formulas that can also stabilize or "cement" oils up to 15-20%. It creates a clear gel texture and is used at low concentrations (0.1-2.0%).
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer: This polymer thickener works without heat, is effective over a wide pH range (3-12), and can handle up to 20% oil, making it suitable for oil-containing surfactant systems.
EasyThick ™ (POLYOXYETHYLENE GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE): A non-ionic thickener for shampoos and liquid soaps that provides a clear texture. It requires heating to 80°C for proper dissolution.

Considering your formula's composition, Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol, Aristoflex AVC, or Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer are likely to provide better viscosity and texture compared to Xanthan Gum or Thick Clean. They are designed to work effectively in the presence of non-ionic surfactants and oil.

Try incorporating one of these recommended thickeners, starting with the lower end of the suggested usage rate and adjusting as needed to achieve your desired shampoo consistency.