Silicone Films for Matte Lipstick: Comparison and Formulation

Asked by: toktak-nutthew On: September 30, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to inquire about making matte lipstick.

How do the following three products differ, and which one is the most long-lasting?

  • Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft)
  • Silicone Film (Comfort-Wear, Hard, Cyclopentasiloxane Base)
  • Silicone Film (Very Long-Wear, Hard, Cyclopentasiloxane Base)

Also, what is the mixing method and what type of colorant is used for lipstick color?

Thank you in advance.

Answer

Understanding Silicone Films for Matte Lipstick

You've asked about the differences between three silicone film products for making matte lipstick and which one offers the longest wear. You also inquired about the mixing process and suitable colorants.

Here's a breakdown of the three silicone films and answers to your questions:

Comparison of Silicone Films

  1. Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft): This is an acrylate-based silicone film. It creates a soft film texture and provides medium durability. It's suitable for various makeup products, including lip products, when a softer feel and medium wear are desired.

  2. Silicone Film (Comfort-Wear, Hard, Cyclopentasiloxane Base): This film is based on Trimethylsiloxysilicate dissolved in Cyclopentasiloxane. It forms a hard, light film. While described as "Comfort-Wear," its durability is noted as medium, particularly in foundation contexts, though it can be used in lip products where comfort is prioritized.

  3. Silicone Film (Very Long-Wear, Hard, Cyclopentasiloxane Base): Also a Trimethylsiloxysilicate in Cyclopentasiloxane solution, this version is designed for extraordinarily long wear. It forms a hard film and is highly durable, making it suitable for long-lasting lip products. However, due to its strong film-forming properties, it might feel less comfortable on the skin compared to the other two.

Which is Most Long-Lasting?

Based on the product descriptions, the Silicone Film (Very Long-Wear, Hard, Cyclopentasiloxane Base) is designed for the longest wear among the three, explicitly stating "Extraordinarily long lasting" and "Very Long-Wear."

Mixing Method for Matte Lipstick

When using these silicone films in a matte lipstick formula, they are typically mixed into the silicone or oil phase of your formulation. They can withstand heat during the manufacturing process.

A typical matte liquid lipstick formula often includes:

  • Film Formers: Like the silicone films you asked about, to create a durable, transfer-resistant layer.
  • Volatile Solvents: Such as Isododecane or Cyclopentasiloxane (which are the bases for some of these silicone films), which evaporate after application, leaving the film and pigments behind.
  • Pigments: To provide color and opacity.
  • Fillers/Matte Agents: Ingredients like Silica, Talc, or various powders to reduce shine and create the matte finish.
  • Emollients (optional/low levels): Small amounts of oils or esters for comfort, though kept low to maintain the matte finish and wear properties.

The specific mixing method will depend on your full formula, but generally involves dispersing pigments and fillers in the solvent/silicone/film former phase.

Colorants for Lipstick

For lipstick, especially matte lipstick, pigments are the primary colorants used. Pigments are solid, insoluble color particles that provide opaque color coverage and contribute to the matte appearance. Common examples include Iron Oxides (red, yellow, black), Titanium Dioxide (white, for opacity and lightening), and various D&C organic pigments (reds, yellows, blues, etc.). Dyes can also be used, but pigments are essential for the opacity and matte finish characteristic of matte lipsticks.