Silicone-Free Cushion Foundation SPF 50 PA+++ Formula

Here is a proposed formula for a silicone-free cushion foundation with SPF 50 PA+++. This formula uses alternative oils, esters, and emulsifiers instead of silicones to create the base. Achieving high SPF with physical filters in a silicone-free system requires careful formulation and good dispersion of the powders.

Formula:

• Phase A (Oil Phase):

  • Ethyl Oleate: 15%
  • Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate: 5%
  • Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene (Isododecane Base): 4%
  • Oil Blender™: 4%

• Phase B (Water Phase):

  • Water: 25%

• Phase C (Powder Phase):

  • Titanium Dioxide Pigment (Non-Treated): 12%
  • Zinc Oxide (Ultra-Fine, Non-Coated): 10%
  • Sericite Powder: 8% (Note: For a completely silicone-free product, ensure this powder is not silicone-coated.)
  • Mica Powder: 5% (Note: For a completely silicone-free product, ensure this powder is not silicone-coated.)
  • Magnesium Stearate: 2%
  • AminoSilk™: 1%
  • BB Micro Silk™: 3%
  • Nylon-12: 3%
  • Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™: 2% (Adjust for desired shade)

• Phase D (Additives):

  • Phenoxyethanol: 1%
  • Fragrance Oil: 0.5%

Instructions:

1. Combine ingredients in Phase A and heat gently (around 70-75°C) to ensure all solids are liquid and well mixed.
2. Heat Phase B (Water) to the same temperature as Phase A.
3. Slowly add Phase B to Phase A while mixing with high shear (e.g., using a homogenizer or high-speed mixer) to form a stable water-in-oil emulsion. Mix for several minutes to ensure a fine emulsion.
4. In a separate container, combine all ingredients from Phase C and mix thoroughly until homogenous. It is crucial that the Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide are well dispersed in this powder blend for optimal SPF/PA performance and a smooth finish. Grinding or milling the powders together before adding to the emulsion is highly recommended.
5. Gradually add the Phase C powder mixture to the emulsion (Phase A+B) while continuing high shear mixing. Ensure the powders are fully incorporated and dispersed evenly. Continue mixing until the foundation is smooth and uniform.
6. Once the emulsion has cooled down to below 40°C, add Phase D ingredients (Phenoxyethanol and Fragrance). Mix well.
7. Adjust color with additional EasyMix Iron Oxides if necessary, mixing thoroughly after each addition.
8. Pour the finished foundation into cushion compacts.

This formula provides a starting point. The percentages of UV filters are estimates and may need adjustment based on the specific grades used and required SPF/PA testing. The texture and feel will be different from a silicone-based formula.