Silicone-Free Physical Sunscreen Formulation: Non-Whitening, Waterproof, Easy-to-Spread

Asked by: wisedrb On: September 25, 2024 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How to formulate a physical sunscreen that is non-whitening, provides good coverage, is waterproof, smooth, easy to spread, and free from silicones? What ingredients are recommended?

Answer

Recommended Ingredients for Non-Whitening, Waterproof, Easy-to-Spread Physical Sunscreen (Silicone-Free)

I understand that the vast number of ingredients can be overwhelming. To create a physical sunscreen with the properties you desire – non-whitening, good coverage, waterproof, smooth, easy to spread, and silicone-free – you can select key ingredients as follows:

Physical UV Filters (Non-Whitening)

Choose Nano or Transparent types of Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide to reduce the white cast on the skin while maintaining good UVA/UVB protection.

  • Zinc Oxide Transparent Dispersion (C12-15 alkyl benzoate Base) or Zinc Oxide Transparent Dispersion (Isopropyl Palmitate Base): Nano zinc oxide dispersed in oil base, helps with easy spreading and prevents whitening.
  • Titanium Dioxide Transparent (10nm, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Base): Nano titanium dioxide dispersed in oil base, enhances protection and does not cause whitening.
  • Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion): Nano titanium dioxide dispersed in water, suitable for water-based or O/W emulsion formulas, provides sheer coverage.

Non-Silicone Emollients (Smooth, Easy to Spread)

Use emollients that provide a lightweight, silicone-like feel but are silicone-free, to make the cream smooth, easy to spread, and non-greasy.

  • LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Nonanoate): Very lightweight emollient, non-greasy, developed to replace Cyclomethicone silicone, provides a good soft and smooth feel on the skin.
  • Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate: Lightweight ester, helps dissolve UV filter ingredients well and provides a good feel in the formula.

Waterproofing Agents (Waterproof)

Use Film Formers that help create a film on the skin, making the sunscreen long-lasting and more waterproof.

  • Allianz OPT (Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer): Water-dispersible film former, helps make the formula waterproof and long-lasting.
  • Syntran 5778 or Syntran 5288: Water-dispersed film formers, help make the formula waterproof and long-lasting.
  • Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene (C13-15 Alkane Base): Oil film former, helps make the formula waterproof and long-lasting, suitable for use in the oil phase.

Formulating a sunscreen to achieve the desired properties requires adjusting the proportions of the ingredients mentioned above, as well as other ingredients in the formula such as emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives, and other skin conditioning agents, to achieve the appropriate texture, stability, and sun protection efficacy.