Silky Serum Base: Separation, Thickening, and BHA Solubility

Asked by: n.sitang On: June 09, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am using Silky Serum Base to create a serum. I encountered separation in the formula after mixing. What type of blender should be used to help stabilize the formula? If blending is insufficient, will the formula separate in the long term?

Additionally, I would like to make the serum thicker. Which ingredients should I add? I currently have clay thick ready, Light Cream Maker, Water-Capsule, and Pro Polymer.

Lastly, can BHA dissolve in Silky Serum Base? I plan to mix a whitening serum and want to know if it will separate again.

Answer

Serum Separation Issue and Solutions

You've experienced separation in your serum formulation. This is a common issue, especially with bases like Silky Serum Base.

Cause of Separation

Based on your description, the separation likely occurred because the Silky Serum Base requires blending for proper emulsification and integration of ingredients. Simply stirring might not be sufficient, especially with the variety and concentration of active ingredients you've included.

Using the Separated Serum

Yes, you can still use the serum you've already made. As advised, simply shake the product well before each use to recombine the layers. Storing it in a pump bottle can help maintain its quality. While the efficacy might be slightly reduced compared to a perfectly emulsified serum, it should still provide benefits from the active ingredients.

Thickening the Serum

Adding more ingredients to your current separated batch is not recommended as it might worsen the stability. For future formulations, if you want a thicker serum texture when using Silky Serum Base, you can incorporate a water-soluble thickener. Recommended options include:

  • Xanthan Gum: Add 0.5-1.0% to the water phase and blend well before combining with the Silky Serum Base.
  • AnyGel: Use 1-1.5%. This is an easy-to-use water gelling agent that tolerates electrolytes well and can be mixed by hand, making it a good alternative if you don't have a blender.

Remember that Silky Serum Base itself creates viscosity depending on the water ratio, but a separate thickener can provide more control over the final texture.

Using BHA in Silky Serum Base

Regular Salicylic Acid (BHA) powder is not soluble in Silky Serum Base or water. To incorporate BHA into a water-based serum formulation like one using Silky Serum Base, you should use a water-soluble form such as Salicylic Acid EZ. This type dissolves directly in water and is suitable for gel or cream formulas that are left on the skin.