Simplified AHA Toner Formulation with MySkinRecipes Ingredients

Asked by: icuicuic4u On: August 27, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can I create a simplified AHA toner formula similar to Pixi or The Ordinary, using ingredients available on MySkinRecipes, focusing on Glycolic Acid as the main active ingredient? I need guidance on which ingredients from the original formulas can be substituted or omitted.

Answer

Simplified AHA Toner Formula for Exfoliation and Moisturizing

Based on the ingredient lists of the Pixi and The Ordinary toners you provided, and the guidance from our staff, we can propose a simplified formula focusing on the core functions of exfoliation and hydration using ingredients available on MySkinRecipes.

Many ingredients in the original formulas are supplementary or can be substituted. The essential components for an effective AHA toner are the exfoliant (Glycolic Acid), a base (Water), a pH adjuster for safety and efficacy, a chelating agent for stability, and a preservative system.

Essential Components:

  • Glycolic Acid: The primary exfoliating ingredient. You can use Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid 100% Powder) at a concentration of 5-7% as in the original products. Remember to adjust the pH of the final formula.
  • Water: The main solvent. Use Purified Water.
  • pH Adjuster: Crucial for safety and effectiveness of AHA. Sodium Hydroxide is recommended to adjust the pH to 3.5-4.0.
  • Chelating Agent: Helps stabilize the formula by binding metal ions in water. Disodium EDTA is a suitable choice.
  • Preservative: Necessary to prevent microbial growth. You can use Global Guard™ (if the final pH is below 5.5) or a combination like Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin.

Recommended Moisturizing and Soothing Components (Choose a combination):

To provide hydration and soothe the skin, you can include one or more of the following available ingredients:

  • Glycerin: A classic humectant.
  • Butylene Glycol: A humectant and solvent.
  • Urea: A Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) component.
  • Sodium PCA: Another NMF component and humectant.
  • Sodium Lactate: Also an NMF component and humectant.
  • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: A blend mimicking skin's natural amino acids.
  • TreMoisture™ (Trehalose): A sugar-based humectant.
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): Moisturizing and soothing.
  • Aloe Vera Extract: Soothing and moisturizing.
  • Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free): Soothing and can help with pores.
  • Rose Water: Can be used as part of the water phase for soothing properties and scent.

Ingredients that can be Omitted or Substituted (as per staff guidance):

Many ingredients from the original lists are not essential for the core function or are not available. These include:

  • Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract (Not available)
  • Hexylene Glycol (Can be substituted with Butylene Glycol)
  • Fructose, Glucose, Sucrose, Dextrin (Can be substituted with Trehalose or other moisturizers)
  • Individual Amino Acids (Alanine, Aspartic Acid, Glutamic Acid, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Arginine) - can be substituted with the Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids blend.
  • Hexyl Nicotinate (Not available)
  • Panax Ginseng Root Extract (Not available)
  • PPG-26-Buteth-26 (Can be omitted)
  • Caramel, Red 4 (Colorants, can be omitted)
  • Centaurea cyanus flower water (Not available)
  • Propanediol (Can be substituted with Butylene Glycol)
  • Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract (Not available)
  • Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Disodium EDTA is sufficient)
  • Sodium Chloride (Not essential)
  • Gellan Gum (Thickener, can be omitted for a liquid toner)
  • Fragrance (Optional, can be omitted)

Simplified Formula Structure Example:

Here is a basic structure. You will need to determine specific percentages based on your desired final concentration of Glycolic Acid (5-7%) and the recommended usage rates of other ingredients.

  1. Purified Water (Up to 100%)
  2. Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid 100% Powder) (5-7%)
  3. Disodium EDTA (0.1-0.2%)
  4. Chosen Moisturizers/Soothing Agents (e.g., Glycerin, Sodium PCA, Aloe Vera Extract, Panthenol, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, TreMoisture™, Urea, Sodium Lactate, Butylene Glycol, Witch Hazel, Rose Water) - select a combination based on desired properties and total percentage.
  5. Preservative (e.g., Global Guard™ or Phenoxyethanol + Ethylhexylglycerin) (Follow recommended usage rate)
  6. Sodium Hydroxide (as needed to adjust pH to 3.5-4.0)

Important: Always add Sodium Hydroxide solution slowly while mixing and checking the pH until the target range of 3.5-4.0 is reached. This is critical for the safety and effectiveness of the Glycolic Acid.

This simplified approach allows you to create an effective exfoliating and moisturizing toner using key ingredients available on the website, omitting unnecessary components from the original complex formulas.